Here’s a last-minute idea for us last-minute gift wrappers. I felt guilty about discarding those round, sturdy cardboard canisters that hold nuts, cocoa, and other foods. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think they can be recycled (aluminum + cardboard?). But they definitely can be reused! Here, I covered them in gift wrap and tied on ribbon—and they can be reused year after year to hold anything from cookies to socks. Or you could wrap them in everyday decorative paper and use them as pencil holders or storage containers. I just thought they were too cute to toss. (The blue and green is for you, Carolyn!)

Reusable wrapped gift canisters

Supplies and tools

• wrapping paper
• scissors
• glue (I used rubber cement)
• ruler & pencil
• round cardboard food canisters
• clear cellophane tape
• ribbon
• paper towel

1. Clean out the empty canisters with a dry paper towel. Measure the height of the cardboard portion of the canister. (You will not cover the metal part of the can.)

2. Cut a piece of wrapping paper that height, roll it around the can, and trim to fit—leaving a couple inches of overlap.

3. Apply glue to one end of the paper, then stick it to the canister. Pull the paper tight as you wrap it around, then apply glue to the other end of the paper and press down. If you wish, you can apply glue to more than just the ends.

4. Reattach the lid and tie a bow around the package. For an awesome video tutorial on how to tie ribbon to packages Hollywood style (without knots) click here. Just tape the ribbon to the bottom of round packages first—it makes the process so much easier. By the way, thinner ribbon looks better and is easier to tie around small round packages.

5. Adjust the ribbon and cut ends as desired.

6. Tape the other side of the ribbon to the bottom as well.

7. You’re all done!

Remember my tank top totes from a few weeks ago? Well, I just had to share this tip. The piece I cut off the bottom of the one of the tank tops made a perfect—and super comfortable—headband. My friend Rhean did a beautiful job modeling it for me. So, save your scraps. Mine is about four inches wide, but nearly any width works. Skinnier = headband; wider = head wrap. They’re ideal for pulling your hair back to wash your face or apply make-up too.

No-sew tank top headband

Supplies and tools

• tank top (preferably a stretchy one)
• rotary cutter
• self-healing mat
• metal ruler
• scissors

1. If you made a gathered tank top tote bag, use the scrap piece you cut off the bottom. If you didn’t make a tote bag, and you just want to repurpose an old tank top, cut 4-inch (or other desired width) strips across the body of the tank.

2. Your original cut may be a bit jagged like mine, so measure and cut a smooth, straight line with a rotary cutter.

3. Then just twist into a figure 8 at the seams and double it over like a rubber band (to wrap your head twice). Smooth the top part out and wrap it around your head, placing the crossed-over seams at the base of your neck.

Our new guest nester, Maria Romvari, transformed this corner of her house for her Hungarian blog A Hoover-gáton is túl, and she’s sharing her tutorial with us! Maria used ordinary thrift store items—side table, vase, and mismatched frames—totaling $10.67 to create this stunning vignette. Another $17.75 spent on paint, primer, and a brush bring the total to less than $30. Add some of her own photos and candle holders, and she was ready to start the transformation. Maria loves the clean, fresh look of white (a girl after my own heart!), but her husband wasn’t keen on the idea (he said white reminds him of hospitals), so he suggested staining the tabletop. It all came together beautifully, don’t you think?

Side table

Supplies and tools

• latex paint (Maria used Olympic Dogwood Blossom [D20-1])
• primer
• wood stain (Maria used gunstock colored stain)
• satin polyurethane
• newspaper or drop cloth
• fine sandpaper
• paint brush
• screwdriver
• mineral spirits (needed to clean polyurethane off paint bush)

1. Disassemble the table. Lightly sand the base and legs.

2. Cover your work surface, then apply two coats of primer to the base and legs. Maria’s husband shared this tip that made painting the legs easier: Hammer a nail into the bottom of each leg so you can hold and spin the legs without touching the fresh paint. Great idea! Let the primer dry, then apply one to two coats of paint. Let dry between coats. When finished, let dry overnight.

3. Sand the tabletop smooth. Again, protect your work surface, then apply two to three coats of stain. Let dry and lightly sand between coats.

4. Apply two to three coats of polyurethane. Let dry and lightly sand between coats. Let dry overnight, then reassemble the table.

Frames

Supplies

• latex paint (Maria used Olympic Dogwood Blossom [D20-1])
• primer
• newspaper or drop cloth

1. Disassemble the picture frames. Protect your work surface, then apply two coats of primer. Let dry after each coat. Apply one to two coats of paint. Let dry between coats. Reassemble the frames, add mats and art or photos as desired. Don’t forget to clean the glass!

Vase

Supplies and tools

• spray paint (Maria used a vanilla white shade from Michaels)
• masking tape
• newspaper

1. Slice masking tape into various widths (or purchase tape in various widths) and tape around the vase in your desired pattern. Protect your work surface with newspaper, then spray with spray paint. Let dry.

Candle holders

Supplies and tools

• frosted glass spray paint
• newspaper
• votives/tealights

1. Clean and dry your glass candle holders. Cover your work surface with newspaper, then spray with frosted spray paint. Let dry.

Thanks, Maria! You can find her original post here.

Before you pack away your summer clothes for the winter, you might want to set one of your tank tops aside to make one of these easy totes. The best kind of tank tops to use for this project are ones that have front and back necklines that are the same height—or very close. Otherwise, your tote bag will be lopsided. The brown tote is reversible, so the pockets can be on the inside or outside. I made that tote small because the straps were thin and wouldn’t hold a lot of weight. The magenta tank top had a gathered neckline in front and back, so a gathered bottom was ideal. A pink store-bought flower pin finished it off.

Tank top tote with six pockets

Supplies and tools

• tank top
• straight pins
• water-erasable fabric marker
• sewing machine and thread
• fabric scissors
• seam ripper
• sewing gauge or ruler

1. First remove the tags with a seam ripper or scissors.

2. Turn the tank top inside out.

3. If your tank top has a bra liner, cut the elastic off the bottom of it.

4. Fold so that the straps lie on top of each other.

5. Fold the bottom of the tank over itself. This will become the pockets.

6. Pin in place, making sure the seams line up. Mark where you want the seams in between each pocket with pins or an erasable fabric marker.

7. Using a stitch that stretches with knit fabric, such as the triple straight stitch, sew the seams that divide each pocket. Make sure the bra liner is lying flat before sewing. Back-stitch to lock the seams.

8. Sew the bottom together about 1/4 inch from the edge. Back-stitch to lock the seam.

9. Turn the tote bag inside out so the the pockets will be on the inside—or leave it as is.

Gathered tank top tote

Supplies and tools

• tank top
• straight pins
• water-erasable fabric marker
• sewing machine and thread
• fabric scissors
• seam ripper
• sewing gauge or ruler
• flower pin

1. First remove the tags with a seam ripper or scissors.

3. Fold so that the straps lie on top of each other. Measure and mark where you want the seam to be. I placed mine five inches from the bottom of the tank top.

4. Baste two rows (about 1/4 inch apart) along the line you marked. Do not back-stitch. Then pull the bobbin threads tight as you slide the fabric inward to gather it. Then use a straight stitch with a shorter stitch length and sew between the two basted seams. Back-stitch to lock the seam. Pull out the basted seams.

5. Cut off the excess fabric about 1/2 inch past the seam.

6. Turn the tote bag right-side out.

What a difference a little color makes! I decided my white sunburst mirror was a little boring. It only looked good from an angle, where the shadows would emphasize the shapes. Straight on, it looked more like a plain white circle. So I grabbed some paint samples and started painting the sun’s rays. I’m happy how it turned out, but I think black would have looked good too. I really wanted to add some teardrop-shaped gems for a hint of bling, but couldn’t find any.

Sunburst mirror revamp

Supplies
Ikea lazy susan
7-inch round mirror
wood glue
teardrop shaped Woodsies
picture hanger and two small nails
primer
paint samples (I used white and Benjamin Moore Figi [AF-525])
toothpicks

Tools
small and medium paintbrush
fine sandpaper
tack cloth
drop cloth
pliers

1. Click here for the instructions to make the mirror.

2. Using a small paintbrush (I used a filbert), paint the top side of each teardrop. I started with a color palette of aquas and blues but decided to stick with just one color. The colors in this photo are Benjamin Moore Fiji (AF-525), Cool Aqua (2056-40), and Bermuda Teal (2044-50).

What can I make with an old picture frame that’s missing glass, a free fabric sample from FabMo, and an 8- x 10-inch LoRan magnet board that my friend Chris gave me? Another friend, Kristi, had an idea: a mini magnetic board. If you add a few more magnetic boards, frames, and coordinating fabrics, you could hang a whole collection of magnetic frames on the wall. They’re perfect for school photos, business cards, or other small ephemera. And you can easily swap out the fabric to fit the season.

Magnetic picture frame

Supplies and tools

• 8- x 10-inch picture frame
• LoRan magnet board
• fabric scrap (at least 8 x 10 inches)
• tape
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15] in satin finish)
• small and medium paintbrush
• newspaper or drop cloth
• rare-earth magnets (aka Mighty Magnets)

1. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry. Apply one coat of paint.

2. Use a small dry paintbrush to brush away the excess paint that pools among the ornate surfaces of the frame, then let dry. Apply a second coat of paint and repeat with the dry paintbrush.

3. If you’re not hanging the frame on the wall, it’s a good idea to paint the back side as well.

4. Iron your fabric piece.

5. Tightly wrap the fabric around the magnet board and tape in place.

6. Insert the fabric-covered magnet board into the frame, then insert the easel back. Add magnet, photos, etc.

Why anyone would paint over window panes is beyond me. But that’s exactly what someone did to this window that I bought at a salvage yard for $20. It took a couple hours to scrape away all the stray paint and caulking, but the effort was totally worth it, considering I now have a fun beach-themed shadowbox. I tore all the tropical photos out of travel magazines. I can think of many other uses for salvaged windows, so there might be more window projects to come.

Salvaged window = shadowbox frame

Supplies

• painter’s tape
• primer
• latex paint
• window cleaner and paper towels
• masking tape
• double-sided mounting tape
• cardboard (one piece big enough to insert in the back of the window frame)
• fabric (large enough to cover the cardboard)
• photos, postcards, seashells, or other memorabilia

Tools

• paint scraper
• paint brush
• vacuum
• utility knife and/or X-Acto knife
• self-healing mat
• scissors
• pencil
• metal ruler
• iron and ironing board

1. Using a paint scraper, remove all the stray paint and caulking. Vacuum up the paint dust and scrub the window clean.

2. OK, now I know why a lazy painter would skip this step. Taping off each window pane is tedious (but necessary) work. The fastest and most precise method is to tape all four sides of one pane letting the excess tape overlap, trim each end with an X-Acto knife, then move to the next pane.

3. Fill and sand holes, as necessary. Wipe clean. Paint one coat of primer. Let dry. Paint two coats of paint. Let dry overnight. Flip it over, and repeat on the other side.

4. Carefully peel off the tape when the paint is dry.

5. Using a utility knife, metal ruler, and self healing mat, measure and cut a large piece of cardboard to fit the opening in the back of the window. I got this large piece of cardboard from Freecycle.

6. Iron a piece of fabric that’s large enough to cover the front of the cardboard and wrap around the edge at least an inch.

7. Wrap the fabric around the front of the cardboard. Tape the overlap to the back with masking tape.

8. Insert the fabric-wrapped cardboard into the window to make sure it fits. Lay on your work surface and arrange your photos and memorabilia as desired. Then move the window aside.

9. Using double-sided mounting tape, affix the photos and other items in place.

10. Insert the piece of cardboard in the window. Mine was such a snug fit that it stayed in place on its own. If yours is loose, you can tape or screw the cardboard in place.

11. I leaned mine against the wall, but you could also hang it vertically or horizontally with two keyhole fasteners. Hang from a stud or use a drywall anchors or molly bolts.

I bought this little library table on Craigslist last year for $15. I loved its cute shape, but it needed lots of repairs. I pulled 21 (mostly bent) nails out of this thing—and filled twice as many holes. Then a few coats of shiny silver paint and a handmade stencil gave it an instant update. Like the stencil? Download the pattern to make your own. And the pink books? I covered a few beloved paperbacks with coordinating 12- x 12-inch scrapbooking paper.

Silver stenciled library side table

*Please see the note at step 7.

Supplies

• spray primer
• chrome spray paint
• white latex paint
• newspaper or drop cloth
• sandpaper or sanding block
• wood filler
• photo mount spray adhesive
• stencil board (available at art stores)

Tools

• tack cloth
• latex gloves (optional)
• utility knife
• self-healing mat
• small round paintbrush
• printer and paper

1. First, disassemble and repair the table you are refurbishing. For me, this required pulling out lots of nails and gluing some broken pieces.

2. Fill holes and nicks with wood filler, then let dry. Sand smooth with fine sandpaper. Remove dust with a tack cloth.

3. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry at least 15 minutes after each coat.

4. Spray 2-3 coats of silver spray paint, letting dry about 20 minutes between coats. Let dry overnight.

5. Download the stencil here. Don’t like my pattern? You’ll find some more free stencils here. Print it out, then attach it to a stencil board with spray adhesive.

6. Using a utility knife and a self-healing mat, cut out the stencil. It’s easier and more effective to turn the stencil, not the knife, when you cut round shapes.

7. Spray a light coat of adhesive on the back of the stencil, and let dry a minute or so. Or you can use stencil adhesive. Adhere the stencil in place. Using a fairly dry paintbrush, apply paint to the stencil in a thin coat. The stencil tends to bleed slightly, so immediately remove the stencil and paint a thicker coat of paint by hand, smoothing out the bleeds as you go.

*Note: The instructions above are how I did it, but I think there’s a better way. After step 3, spray a couple coats of white paint in the general area where you’re going to stencil, then skip to step 5 and 6. Trace the stencil onto Con-Tact paper and cut it out. When the paint is dry (I’d give it 24 hours), remove the backing and adhere the Con-Tact paper stencil onto the table. Continue with step 4, then peel off the Con-Tact paper. (If you try this, please let me know if it works for you!)

8. Let the paint dry. All done.

The secret to painting this faux-mosaic table top? Dot stickers. Plus some white paint followed by a few coats of fabulous French blue paint. Add matching French bistro chairs (don’t you just adore these chairs?) and an old Ikea chandelier, and you’re ready for an al fresco candlelight dinner. But not just any dinner. Snag a copy of Julia Child’s cookbook and whip up a tasty French recipe for you and your honey. (If you haven’t seen Julie & Julia yet, go see it now!) Bon appétit.

Outdoor bistro table and café chairs

Supplies

• old metal or wood outdoor table
• café chairs (I used Ikea chairs)
• 2 exterior paint colors (I used KM Professional Weather Shield semi-gloss enamel in white and Galleon Blue [HL4288-3])
• primer (I used KM Professional Weather Shield exterior primer)
• about 200 3/4-inch dot stickers (available at stationery stores)
• fine sandpaper
• latex gloves
• clear artist’s medium
• painter’s tape

Tools

• drill and drill bit
• craft knife (such as an X-Acto knife)
• yardstick or long ruler
• pencil
• 2 sponge paint brushes
• drop cloth
• tack cloth
• screwdriver

1. First find an outdoor table to paint, then either paint some café chairs to match OR find café chairs in your favorite color and paint the table to match. (This tutorial assumes you went with the first option. I replaced the tabletop altogether with a 36-inch round laminated-pine tabletop from The Home Depot.)

2. Remove the wooden slats from the café chairs with a screwdriver. Remove and discard the old tabletop from the base. Lightly sand both the wooden slats and the new tabletop and remove the dust with a tack cloth.

3. Cover your work surface with a drop cloth. Paint one coat of primer on each side of the chair slats and tabletop. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint on all sides of the chair slats and 2-3 coats of white paint on the top side of the tabletop. If you use the same paint I did, let dry 24 hours after each coat. Seems like a long time, but I found it necessary. Alternatively, you can use a water-based exterior paint, which will dry quicker.

4. Reattach the wooden slats to the chairs with a screwdriver.

5. Create your desired pattern by adhering dot stickers to the tabletop. Use a yard stick to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. If you need to move a sticker, lift a corner with the tip of your craft knife and discard the sticker. Do not reuse stickers. They don’t stick as well the second time.

6. Make sure all the stickers are adhering well, then paint one coat of clear medium over all of them. This step is important. If you don’t use the medium, the paint will bleed under the stickers. I know from experience. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint over the entire top surface. Again, let dry 24 hours after each coat.

7. Peel off all the dot stickers. Use your craft knife to lift an edge, then peel off. You may need to remove some adhesive residue with a cleaner such as Goo Gone.

8. Paint 2-3 coats of blue on the bottom of the tabletop. Let dry after each coat. This will protect the wood from the weather on all sides.

9. It turned out that my table base wasn’t rusty, just the hardware was, so I replaced all the bolts and screws. A fresh coat of glossy black indoor/outdoor spray paint (along with new hardware) made the base look good as new.

10. Reassemble the base and place it on the bottom surface of the tabletop. Make sure it’s centered, then mark where the holes should be drilled. Set the legs aside and drill the holes. Make a little flag with painter’s tape on the drill bit marking how deep you should go. This will keep you from accidentally drilling all the way through the tabletop.

11. Drive wood screws into the pre-drilled holes to attach the base to the tabletop.

12. Take the bistro set to your favorite spot outdoors and enjoy!

I posted a sneak peek of this project in May. It took me a couple months, not a couple weeks, but my tool cabinet is finally finished. I outgrew my toolbox end tables, but I refused to pay hundreds of dollars for one of those ugly Craftsman tool chests. Handles on both sides make this bureau easy to pull around. Ikea’s mini drawers form dividers and lift-out trays. What about the mini chests left over? I have a plan for those (coming soon). Please come back Friday to see my complete tool/craft corner.

Old dresser = rolling tool cabinet

The total cost of the dresser, hardware, paint, and drawer dividers came to $110. I call that a deal.

Supplies

• old dresser
• wood filler
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Dream I Can Fly [769] satin finish)
• painter’s tape
• drawer handles (I used Ikea Lansa handles)
• casters (I used Ikea Rill locking casters) and wood screws
• 3 Ikea Fira mini chests with five drawers
• latex gloves (optional)

Tools

• screwdriver
• hammer & nails
• drill and 1/16, 3/32, and 3/8 drill bits
• sanding block and sandpaper
• wide foam paint brush
• ruler and pencil
• tack cloth

1. Flip the dresser over. Prepare to install the casters. For me, that meant removing those pieces of wood.

2. Drill pilot holes, then screw on the caster plates. Mine are about 1/4 inch from the edge. I only used the locks on the two back wheels.

3. One of my drawer bottoms needed to be replaced. Instead of trying to find sturdy 5/16-inch thick wood, I disassembled a wooden wine box that I obtained on Freecycle.

4. After my friend and local woodworker cut the pieces to size, I drilled tiny pilot holes before hammering in the nails (so the thin wood wouldn’t split).

5. The top drawer didn’t have any guide rails to keep the drawer from tipping forward, so I attached scrap wood pieces underneath the top surface of the dresser.

6. Remove the wooden handles. Fill holes and imperfections with wood filler. When dry, lightly sand smooth.

7. Wipe the dresser down with a tack cloth to remove dust. Use latex gloves if you want to keep the stickiness off your hands.

8. Paint two coats of primer on the frame and drawer fronts.

9. Use painter’s tape along the edges of the drawer fronts as guides.

10. Apply two coats of paint to the frame and drawer fronts with a sponge brush—it gives a smoother surface than a roller or bristle brush. Let dry a couple hours after each coat. Be sure to paint the back as well. Measure, mark, and drill 3/8-inch holes for the handles. Attach the handles with a screwdriver. I installed the side handles the same height as the top drawer handle (6 inches from the top).

11. Assemble the Ikea Fira drawers per the instructions.

12. Insert the drawers in your desired configuration. Fill with your tools and crafting supplies. The top tray can slide back and forth or lift out.