Inspired by CB2's bamboo bath mat

I’m on a hot glue kick lately. This bath mat requires just three materials: shelf liner, hot glue, and 175 wine corks. How did I gather 175 wine corks, you ask? Working at Sunset had its perks. With all the wine tastings in that office, collecting corks was a cinch. So far, I’ve made a wine cork trivet with them and now this bath mat. My sister Christy gave me the genius idea of using non-adhesive shelf liner with a grip bottom, so it stays in place. The cork feels good on my bare feet, plus it goes perfectly with the natural color palette of my bathroom. Yeah, but how durable is it, you say? Hmm. I’ll test it out for a few weeks and let you know on Twitter how it holds up. This bath mat was inspired by CB2′s bamboo bath mat, which is perfectly lovely and affordable but too big for my tiny bathroom, hence this equally eco-friendly version. UPDATE: Check out this post to read more about whether to seal your bath mat.

Wine cork bath mat

Supplies

• 175 wine corks (plus a few extra to allow for mistakes)
• hot glue sticks
• non-adhesive shelf liner (I used Duck brand Smooth Top Easy Liner in taupe, found at Walmart. Or try [ribbed side down] Plast-O-Mat ribbed shelf liner, available at Ace Hardware, Bed Bath & Beyond or The Container Store)

Tools

• pocket knife (sharpened)
• cutting board (one that you won’t mind if it gets slightly damaged)
• rotary cutter and mat
• long ruler or yardstick
• hot glue gun
• coarse sand paper

1. Cut each cork in half lengthwise with a sharp pocket knife. Be patient and careful so you don’t cut a finger off. It’s best if you use natural cork wine corks that are similar length and width. Sand the bottoms flat if any of your cuts are jagged.

2. Arrange the corks into a rectangle, flat sides down. Use a ruler or the lines on a cutting mat to make sure your configuration of corks is as close to a straight rectangle as possible. My mat is 18.5 x 30 inches (10 x 35 cork halves)—a little smaller than a standard size bath mat, but then my bathroom is smaller than a standard size bathroom.

3. Measure and cut the shelf liner to size with a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat.

4. Transfer the outer rows/columns of corks to the shelf liner and glue them to the top side of the liner. Apply a rectangle-shaped line of glue to the flat side of each cork, about 1/8 inch from the edge, line up the cork with the edge of the mat, and press hard. Wipe away any glue dribbles before it hardens fully, but after it cools (so you don’t burn yourself).

5. Once your frame is in place, transfer the rest of the corks to their corresponding position on the mat. You’ll probably have to do some arranging and trading places to make all the corks fit. Then remove one cork at a time and glue it down. You’re done!

I planned to make a flower-covered paper lantern for months. Not until I found a white poinsettia garland at a Michael’s after-Christmas clearance did it become a reality. Normally, I’m not a fan of fake flowers, but I think this is a great way to use them. I had some leftover pom-pom fringe, so I festooned the second lantern with pom poms. Now I can’t decide which one I like best. I bought these white 12-inch paper lanterns at Ikea years ago. Raise your hand if you hate the cheap white paper lanterns that Ikea and World Market sell these days. Me too.

Paper lanterns, two ways: flowers and pom poms

Supplies and tools

• white paper lantern and cord kit (try this one or this one)
• hot glue gun and glue
• fake flowers
• scissors
• pom-pom fringe
• compact fluorescent light bulb

Flower-covered lantern:

1. Start by removing the flowers from the garland, remove the plastic pieces, and tear the petals apart (some are hot glued together).

2. Then cut the pom poms off the fringe. You can also buy loose pom poms, but I liked these off-white ones better than the white ones they sell loose.

3. Hot glue the flowers and pom-pom centers onto the lantern. Glue them so they overlap to cover the entire paper surface. The garland I used provided just enough flowers for one 12-inch paper lantern. This one required two 4-foot spools of pom-pom fringe.

4. Insert the cord kit and hang from the ceiling. If you use a compact fluorescent light bulb, you’ll never have to worry about the hot glue melting.

Pom-pom lantern:

1. Apply a thin line of hot glue along the paper lantern’s ridges, a few inches at a time. Adhere the fringe to the glue, then repeat. DO NOT follow the ridge all the way around because the frame is constructed as a spiral, so your ends will never meet. So, when you get six or so inches from the end, start directing the line to connect to where you started. I spaced each line of pom poms six lines apart. This one required three 4-foot spools of pom-pom fringe.

2. Insert the cord kit and hang from the ceiling.

Here’s a last-minute idea for us last-minute gift wrappers. I felt guilty about discarding those round, sturdy cardboard canisters that hold nuts, cocoa, and other foods. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think they can be recycled (aluminum + cardboard?). But they definitely can be reused! Here, I covered them in gift wrap and tied on ribbon—and they can be reused year after year to hold anything from cookies to socks. Or you could wrap them in everyday decorative paper and use them as pencil holders or storage containers. I just thought they were too cute to toss. (The blue and green is for you, Carolyn!)

Reusable wrapped gift canisters

Supplies and tools

• wrapping paper
• scissors
• glue (I used rubber cement)
• ruler & pencil
• round cardboard food canisters
• clear cellophane tape
• ribbon
• paper towel

1. Clean out the empty canisters with a dry paper towel. Measure the height of the cardboard portion of the canister. (You will not cover the metal part of the can.)

2. Cut a piece of wrapping paper that height, roll it around the can, and trim to fit—leaving a couple inches of overlap.

3. Apply glue to one end of the paper, then stick it to the canister. Pull the paper tight as you wrap it around, then apply glue to the other end of the paper and press down. If you wish, you can apply glue to more than just the ends.

4. Reattach the lid and tie a bow around the package. For an awesome video tutorial on how to tie ribbon to packages Hollywood style (without knots) click here. Just tape the ribbon to the bottom of round packages first—it makes the process so much easier. By the way, thinner ribbon looks better and is easier to tie around small round packages.

5. Adjust the ribbon and cut ends as desired.

6. Tape the other side of the ribbon to the bottom as well.

7. You’re all done!

I know: Monica, you need to get your seasons straight, right? I’m celebrating Spring in November because I couldn’t wait four months to share these beauties. Besides, red and green makes it almost Christmasy. I’m sure you recognize this window that used to be a mirror. I decided I had too many mirrors in my apartment and not enough art. And one can never have too much white paint, I say. The botanical illustrations are from Köhler’s Medizinal-Pflanzen, a four-volume German book published in 1887. Botanicus.org scanned the nearly 300 drawings and made them available to download for free! © 1995-2009 Missouri Botanical Garden.

Window frame and (free!) botanical illustrations

1. Choose your desired botanical images and download them here (or buy prints here). I chose illustrations that have red in them because they went with my decor, but there are many gorgeous illustrations in a rainbow of colors as well.

2. Open your downloaded illustrations in a photo-editing software program (such as Photoshop) to resize and/or crop the images to fit your picture frames.

3. If you have a high quality printer, print your images. If not, save your files onto a flash drive or CD and take them to a photocopying service. I paid $1.78 for each 11×17-inch print at FedEx Office. Use a paper trimmer to trim to size.

4. Frame each print and hang them on the wall. Easy peasy.

For a step-by-step tutorial on painting and hanging a window frame, click here.

Remember my tank top totes from a few weeks ago? Well, I just had to share this tip. The piece I cut off the bottom of the one of the tank tops made a perfect—and super comfortable—headband. My friend Rhean did a beautiful job modeling it for me. So, save your scraps. Mine is about four inches wide, but nearly any width works. Skinnier = headband; wider = head wrap. They’re ideal for pulling your hair back to wash your face or apply make-up too.

No-sew tank top headband

Supplies and tools

• tank top (preferably a stretchy one)
• rotary cutter
• self-healing mat
• metal ruler
• scissors

1. If you made a gathered tank top tote bag, use the scrap piece you cut off the bottom. If you didn’t make a tote bag, and you just want to repurpose an old tank top, cut 4-inch (or other desired width) strips across the body of the tank.

2. Your original cut may be a bit jagged like mine, so measure and cut a smooth, straight line with a rotary cutter.

3. Then just twist into a figure 8 at the seams and double it over like a rubber band (to wrap your head twice). Smooth the top part out and wrap it around your head, placing the crossed-over seams at the base of your neck.

Before you pack away your summer clothes for the winter, you might want to set one of your tank tops aside to make one of these easy totes. The best kind of tank tops to use for this project are ones that have front and back necklines that are the same height—or very close. Otherwise, your tote bag will be lopsided. The brown tote is reversible, so the pockets can be on the inside or outside. I made that tote small because the straps were thin and wouldn’t hold a lot of weight. The magenta tank top had a gathered neckline in front and back, so a gathered bottom was ideal. A pink store-bought flower pin finished it off.

Tank top tote with six pockets

Supplies and tools

• tank top
• straight pins
• water-erasable fabric marker
• sewing machine and thread
• fabric scissors
• seam ripper
• sewing gauge or ruler

1. First remove the tags with a seam ripper or scissors.

2. Turn the tank top inside out.

3. If your tank top has a bra liner, cut the elastic off the bottom of it.

4. Fold so that the straps lie on top of each other.

5. Fold the bottom of the tank over itself. This will become the pockets.

6. Pin in place, making sure the seams line up. Mark where you want the seams in between each pocket with pins or an erasable fabric marker.

7. Using a stitch that stretches with knit fabric, such as the triple straight stitch, sew the seams that divide each pocket. Make sure the bra liner is lying flat before sewing. Back-stitch to lock the seams.

8. Sew the bottom together about 1/4 inch from the edge. Back-stitch to lock the seam.

9. Turn the tote bag inside out so the pockets will be on the inside—or leave it as is.

Gathered tank top tote

Supplies and tools

• tank top
• straight pins
• water-erasable fabric marker
• sewing machine and thread
• fabric scissors
• seam ripper
• sewing gauge or ruler
• flower pin

1. First remove the tags with a seam ripper or scissors.

3. Fold so that the straps lie on top of each other. Measure and mark where you want the seam to be. I placed mine five inches from the bottom of the tank top.

4. Baste two rows (about 1/4 inch apart) along the line you marked. Do not back-stitch. Then pull the bobbin threads tight as you slide the fabric inward to gather it. Then use a straight stitch with a shorter stitch length and sew between the two basted seams. Back-stitch to lock the seam. Pull out the basted seams.

5. Cut off the excess fabric about 1/2 inch past the seam.

6. Turn the tote bag right-side out.

What can I make with an old picture frame that’s missing glass, a free fabric sample from FabMo, and an 8- x 10-inch LoRan magnet board that my friend Chris gave me? Another friend, Kristi, had an idea: a mini magnetic board. If you add a few more magnetic boards, frames, and coordinating fabrics, you could hang a whole collection of magnetic frames on the wall. They’re perfect for school photos, business cards, or other small ephemera. And you can easily swap out the fabric to fit the season.

Magnetic picture frame

Supplies and tools

• 8- x 10-inch picture frame
• LoRan magnet board
• fabric scrap (at least 8 x 10 inches)
• tape
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15] in satin finish)
• small and medium paintbrush
• newspaper or drop cloth
• rare-earth magnets (aka Mighty Magnets)

1. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry. Apply one coat of paint.

2. Use a small dry paintbrush to brush away the excess paint that pools among the ornate surfaces of the frame, then let dry. Apply a second coat of paint and repeat with the dry paintbrush.

3. If you’re not hanging the frame on the wall, it’s a good idea to paint the back side as well.

4. Iron your fabric piece.

5. Tightly wrap the fabric around the magnet board and tape in place.

6. Insert the fabric-covered magnet board into the frame, then insert the easel back. Add magnet, photos, etc.

Why anyone would paint over window panes is beyond me. But that’s exactly what someone did to this window that I bought at a salvage yard for $20. It took a couple hours to scrape away all the stray paint and caulking, but the effort was totally worth it, considering I now have a fun beach-themed shadowbox. I tore all the tropical photos out of travel magazines. I can think of many other uses for salvaged windows, so there might be more window projects to come.

Salvaged window = shadowbox frame

Supplies

• painter’s tape
• primer
• latex paint
• window cleaner and paper towels
• masking tape
• double-sided mounting tape
• cardboard (one piece big enough to insert in the back of the window frame)
• fabric (large enough to cover the cardboard)
• photos, postcards, seashells, or other memorabilia

Tools

• paint scraper
• paint brush
• vacuum
• utility knife and/or X-Acto knife
• self-healing mat
• scissors
• pencil
• metal ruler
• iron and ironing board

1. Using a paint scraper, remove all the stray paint and caulking. Vacuum up the paint dust and scrub the window clean.

2. OK, now I know why a lazy painter would skip this step. Taping off each window pane is tedious (but necessary) work. The fastest and most precise method is to tape all four sides of one pane letting the excess tape overlap, trim each end with an X-Acto knife, then move to the next pane.

3. Fill and sand holes, as necessary. Wipe clean. Paint one coat of primer. Let dry. Paint two coats of paint. Let dry overnight. Flip it over, and repeat on the other side.

4. Carefully peel off the tape when the paint is dry.

5. Using a utility knife, metal ruler, and self healing mat, measure and cut a large piece of cardboard to fit the opening in the back of the window. I got this large piece of cardboard from Freecycle.

6. Iron a piece of fabric that’s large enough to cover the front of the cardboard and wrap around the edge at least an inch.

7. Wrap the fabric around the front of the cardboard. Tape the overlap to the back with masking tape.

8. Insert the fabric-wrapped cardboard into the window to make sure it fits. Lay on your work surface and arrange your photos and memorabilia as desired. Then move the window aside.

9. Using double-sided mounting tape, affix the photos and other items in place.

10. Insert the piece of cardboard in the window. Mine was such a snug fit that it stayed in place on its own. If yours is loose, you can tape or screw the cardboard in place.

11. I leaned mine against the wall, but you could also hang it vertically or horizontally with two keyhole fasteners. Hang from a stud or use a drywall anchors or molly bolts.

I told you I had a plan for the mini chests that were leftover from my DIY rolling toolbox. I had a plethora of printer paper and envelopes and nowhere to store it all. The solution: stack three mini chests together, add molding, casters, and paint—and voilà a paper organizer. The casters were leftover from Ikea plant glides that I used to make my starburst mirror and nailhead clock. What can I say? I’m a very organized pack rat. I get it from my dad.

Three Ikea mini chests = paper organizer

Supplies
3 Ikea Fira mini chests
8 feet of 3/4-inch molding (found mine at Lowe’s)
8 feet of 1-1/4-inch molding (got mine on Freecycle)
wood glue
1/2-inch wire brads (small nails)
1-1/4-inch finish nails
2 pieces of 10-1/4- x 13-15/16-inch plywood (my plywood was leftover from my shoebox shelves project)
wood filler
primer (I used Kilz 2 latex primer)
paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15] in satin finish)
newspaper or drop cloth

Tools
hammer
sanding block and fine sandpaper
miter box and pull saw (or electric saw)
drill and 1/16 and 15/32 drill bits
screwdriver
nail set
3-inch foam paint brush
paint-can opener
tack cloth and latex gloves (optional)

1. Assemble the mini chests per the instructions. Do not insert the shelves yet.

2. Stack the mini chests on top of each other. Attach them together by hammering four wire brads (one near each corner) into the bottom shelf of the top two chests.

3. Take one of your pieces of plywood and drill a 15/32-inch hole one inch from each corner. Hammer in the plastic pieces that hold the caster pins, then insert the casters.

4. Turn your shelf unit upside down. Apply a bit of wood glue to one side of your plywood. Place the shelf unit on top of the glued side. Using four finish nails, attach it from the inside—one nail near each corner. Repeat for the bottom piece of plywood that already has casters attached.

5. Cut all the pieces of molding. Make sure you miter the front corners at 45 degrees. I used the larger molding at the top and bottom and the smaller molding on the two middle shelves. I was able to cut the smaller pieces with a miter box and pull saw, but the larger pieces needed to be cut with an electric saw (thanks, Tony!). The inside measurement for the front pieces is 13-15/16 inches. The inside measurement for the side pieces is 10-1/4 inches.

6. Apply a line of glue, then place the trim piece.

7. Pre-drill three holes in each trim piece using your 1/16-inch drill bit (so the wood won’t split). Hammer the finish nails into the holes. Make sure two nails are connected to one of the chests, and one is connected to the other. Use a nail set to get the nails just below the surface of the wood.

8. Repeat for each piece of molding. Fill in the nail holes with wood filler.

9. Insert the shelves according to the instructions. Sand away all the rough edges and excessive wood filler.

10. Paint one coat of primer. Let dry about 15 minutes. Lightly sand with fine sandpaper. Remove the dust with a tack cloth (use gloves if you wish). Then apply two coats of paint, letting dry after each coat. No need to paint all the way inside each shelf. Just paint as far back as you can reach. Because it’s on wheels, paint the back of the organizer as well.

11. Fill the shelves with paper, envelopes, cards, or other stationery items. Place it near your desk within easy reach.

This project is what Elizabeth would call “finding crap on the curb and making something fabulous.” I found this mint green railing (from a crib? shelves?) in a pile of debris. Add galvanized wall pocket planters (on clearance at Jo-Ann for $1.50 each), daisy hooks (thanks, Kristi), spice rack ($3.50 at a thrift store), paper/pen bin (thanks, Jim), dowels and wire for hooks (Freecycle), and I’ve got a cheap craft organizing solution. A power strip and a salvaged bench vice (thanks, dad) attached to the rolling toolbox make it complete. Can’t wait to use it!

Craft and tool station

Supplies

• salvaged railing (from an old crib, porch railing, etc.)
• wood screws
• wire (to make hooks)
• 3/8-inch dowels
• power strip
• nuts, washers, and bolts
• primer
• paint
• scrap 1×4 piece of wood
• newspaper or drop cloth
• drywall anchors or molly bolts (optional)

Tools

• pliers
• wire cutters
• drill and drill bits
• screwdriver
• sanding block and sandpaper
• miter box and pull saw
• small sponge paint brush
• stud sensor (optional)

1. If you can’t find hooks that will work with your railing, get some wire and make some yourself. Use pliers to bend into shape, then cut with wire cutters. I made 18 hooks.

2. Cut your scrap piece of wood into four 2- x 3-inch pieces, then drill a 7/16-inch hole at one end of each piece. These will hold the dowels.

3. Prime (one coat) and paint (two coats) the dowel holders.

4. Attach the dowel holders to the railing with wood screws. Drill two holes in the dowel holders, then drill matching holes in the railing.

5. Counter-sink the holes with a larger drill bit, then screw in 1-3/4-inch wood screws.

6. Attach the railing to the wall at the top and bottom with four long screws. Find a stud to hang them from or use molly bolts.

7. Cut your dowels so they stick out at least a half inch beyond the dowel holders. Slide ribbon and paper onto the dowels, then insert into the holders. Hang all your bins/pegs/etc. on the rack using the hooks you made. Fill with craft supplies.

8. Mount a power strip to the side of your workstation. Use screws or nails. Make a pencil-rubbing template of the back of the power strip on scrap paper first to determine where to place the nails/screws.

9. Attach the bench vice to the front left corner (if you’re right-handed) of your work surface using bolts, washers, and nuts.