Introducing a new guest nester! Australian Abby Matthews blogs about the things that inspire her at Two Little Dicky Birds. Abby’s remake of this tired, chipped pine dressing table reminds me of my wallpapered cart, but she used an entirely different (and better?) process, so I had to share it with you. Abby writes: “I was inspired by Bryonie Porter’s wallpapered furniture, but wasn’t confident that I could carry off wallpapering the entire table, so I decided to just apply the paper to the top. It was just as well, as I botched the first wallpaper application and used up the bulk of the paper the second time around. The wallpaper I used is a Florence Broadhurst design from an offcut won on eBay. It’s currently used as a writing/computer desk in our living area and is definitely my favourite piece of furniture.” Thanks, Abby!

Wallpapered dressing table

Supplies

• dressing table
• painter’s tape
• sandpaper
• sugar soap (a.k.a. TSP in the U.S.)
• sealer and primer
• spray paint
• wallpaper
• permanent spray adhesive
• clear acrylic spray

Tools

• cloth and/or tack cloth
• sanding block
• pencil
• scissors and/or Stanley knife (a.k.a. utility knife)

1. The dressing table originally came with a mirror attached. This was removed and set aside. Remove the drawers and either tape the handles with painters tape or remove completely and set aside.

2. If necessary, strip and prepare surface. Sand back any glossy varnish or peeling paint. Wipe clean with sugar soap (½ cup sugar soap to ½ bucket of water) and a cloth. Leave to dry. (Don’t forget the drawers!)

NB. If you want to leave the finish as it is, just give it a good clean with sugar soap and leave to dry.

3. Prime the surface before spray painting. This will reduce the number of coats required and prevent any bleed-through of remaining stain or paint. Dry according to instructions on can.

4. Lightly sand and wipe down with a damp rag or tack cloth.

5. Apply a coat of spray paint. It is best to spray a few light coats rather than a thicker coat as otherwise it will tend to run. Once you have sufficiently covered the dresser, leave it to dry overnight.

6. Cut the wallpaper to size. Roll it out, face down, on a clean, dry surface. Place the dresser upside down on the paper and trace around the outside with pencil. Cut with scissors or a Stanley knife. Turn dresser back upright and check the fit. You may need to trim it slightly for a better fit.

NB. As my dresser had a rounded edge I had to take 2-5mm (~1/8 inch) off to avoid papering the curved edge. It is difficult to adhere the wallpaper to a curve, so it’s best to stick with flat surfaces where possible.

7. Spray both the table and paper with permanent spray adhesive. Wait a few seconds until both feel tacky to the touch, otherwise they won’t stick (as I found out the hard way!). The dresser may need two coats as it can absorb quite a bit of glue. Now the tricky part: Line up the wallpaper with the top of the table, working quickly as the glue will stick quite quickly, smoothing out any air bubbles as you go. Leave to dry overnight or even for a couple of days. This is really important. Don’t be tempted to skip to the next step early or the paint finish is likely to run.

8. Brush or spray on clear acrylic. This helps the wallpaper bond to the furniture, protects it from spills and scratches, and makes it a lot easier to clean. If you’re using spray, you’ll need a few coats (five or more), leaving to dry (as per the manufacturer’s instructions) between each coat.

9. Reattach the handles on the drawers if you have removed them, and replace in the table. Congratulations – you’re all finished!

Our new guest nester, Maria Romvari, transformed this corner of her house for her Hungarian blog A Hoover-gáton is túl, and she’s sharing her tutorial with us! Maria used ordinary thrift store items—side table, vase, and mismatched frames—totaling $10.67 to create this stunning vignette. Another $17.75 spent on paint, primer, and a brush bring the total to less than $30. Add some of her own photos and candle holders, and she was ready to start the transformation. Maria loves the clean, fresh look of white (a girl after my own heart!), but her husband wasn’t keen on the idea (he said white reminds him of hospitals), so he suggested staining the tabletop. It all came together beautifully, don’t you think?

Side table

Supplies and tools

• latex paint (Maria used Olympic Dogwood Blossom [D20-1])
• primer
• wood stain (Maria used gunstock colored stain)
• satin polyurethane
• newspaper or drop cloth
• fine sandpaper
• paint brush
• screwdriver
• mineral spirits (needed to clean polyurethane off paint bush)

1. Disassemble the table. Lightly sand the base and legs.

2. Cover your work surface, then apply two coats of primer to the base and legs. Maria’s husband shared this tip that made painting the legs easier: Hammer a nail into the bottom of each leg so you can hold and spin the legs without touching the fresh paint. Great idea! Let the primer dry, then apply one to two coats of paint. Let dry between coats. When finished, let dry overnight.

3. Sand the tabletop smooth. Again, protect your work surface, then apply two to three coats of stain. Let dry and lightly sand between coats.

4. Apply two to three coats of polyurethane. Let dry and lightly sand between coats. Let dry overnight, then reassemble the table.

Frames

Supplies

• latex paint (Maria used Olympic Dogwood Blossom [D20-1])
• primer
• newspaper or drop cloth

1. Disassemble the picture frames. Protect your work surface, then apply two coats of primer. Let dry after each coat. Apply one to two coats of paint. Let dry between coats. Reassemble the frames, add mats and art or photos as desired. Don’t forget to clean the glass!

Vase

Supplies and tools

• spray paint (Maria used a vanilla white shade from Michaels)
• masking tape
• newspaper

1. Slice masking tape into various widths (or purchase tape in various widths) and tape around the vase in your desired pattern. Protect your work surface with newspaper, then spray with spray paint. Let dry.

Candle holders

Supplies and tools

• frosted glass spray paint
• newspaper
• votives/tealights

1. Clean and dry your glass candle holders. Cover your work surface with newspaper, then spray with frosted spray paint. Let dry.

Thanks, Maria! You can find her original post here.

I bought this little library table on Craigslist last year for $15. I loved its cute shape, but it needed lots of repairs. I pulled 21 (mostly bent) nails out of this thing—and filled twice as many holes. Then a few coats of shiny silver paint and a handmade stencil gave it an instant update. Like the stencil? Download the pattern to make your own. And the pink books? I covered a few beloved paperbacks with coordinating 12- x 12-inch scrapbooking paper.

Silver stenciled library side table

*Please see the note at step 7.

Supplies

• spray primer
• chrome spray paint
• white latex paint
• newspaper or drop cloth
• sandpaper or sanding block
• wood filler
• photo mount spray adhesive
• stencil board (available at art stores)

Tools

• tack cloth
• latex gloves (optional)
• utility knife
• self-healing mat
• small round paintbrush
• printer and paper

1. First, disassemble and repair the table you are refurbishing. For me, this required pulling out lots of nails and gluing some broken pieces.

2. Fill holes and nicks with wood filler, then let dry. Sand smooth with fine sandpaper. Remove dust with a tack cloth.

3. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry at least 15 minutes after each coat.

4. Spray 2-3 coats of silver spray paint, letting dry about 20 minutes between coats. Let dry overnight.

5. Download the stencil here. Don’t like my pattern? You’ll find some more free stencils here. Print it out, then attach it to a stencil board with spray adhesive.

6. Using a utility knife and a self-healing mat, cut out the stencil. It’s easier and more effective to turn the stencil, not the knife, when you cut round shapes.

7. Spray a light coat of adhesive on the back of the stencil, and let dry a minute or so. Or you can use stencil adhesive. Adhere the stencil in place. Using a fairly dry paintbrush, apply paint to the stencil in a thin coat. The stencil tends to bleed slightly, so immediately remove the stencil and paint a thicker coat of paint by hand, smoothing out the bleeds as you go.

*Note: The instructions above are how I did it, but I think there’s a better way. After step 3, spray a couple coats of white paint in the general area where you’re going to stencil, then skip to step 5 and 6. Trace the stencil onto Con-Tact paper and cut it out. When the paint is dry (I’d give it 24 hours), remove the backing and adhere the Con-Tact paper stencil onto the table. Continue with step 4, then peel off the Con-Tact paper. (If you try this, please let me know if it works for you!)

8. Let the paint dry. All done.

The secret to painting this faux-mosaic table top? Dot stickers. Plus some white paint followed by a few coats of fabulous French blue paint. Add matching French bistro chairs (don’t you just adore these chairs?) and an old Ikea chandelier, and you’re ready for an al fresco candlelight dinner. But not just any dinner. Snag a copy of Julia Child’s cookbook and whip up a tasty French recipe for you and your honey. (If you haven’t seen Julie & Julia yet, go see it now!) Bon appétit.

Outdoor bistro table and café chairs

Supplies

• old metal or wood outdoor table
• café chairs (I used Ikea chairs)
• 2 exterior paint colors (I used KM Professional Weather Shield semi-gloss enamel in white and Galleon Blue [HL4288-3])
• primer (I used KM Professional Weather Shield exterior primer)
• about 200 3/4-inch dot stickers (available at stationery stores)
• fine sandpaper
• latex gloves
• clear artist’s medium
• painter’s tape

Tools

• drill and drill bit
• craft knife (such as an X-Acto knife)
• yardstick or long ruler
• pencil
• 2 sponge paint brushes
• drop cloth
• tack cloth
• screwdriver

1. First find an outdoor table to paint, then either paint some café chairs to match OR find café chairs in your favorite color and paint the table to match. (This tutorial assumes you went with the first option. I replaced the tabletop altogether with a 36-inch round laminated-pine tabletop from The Home Depot.)

2. Remove the wooden slats from the café chairs with a screwdriver. Remove and discard the old tabletop from the base. Lightly sand both the wooden slats and the new tabletop and remove the dust with a tack cloth.

3. Cover your work surface with a drop cloth. Paint one coat of primer on each side of the chair slats and tabletop. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint on all sides of the chair slats and 2-3 coats of white paint on the top side of the tabletop. If you use the same paint I did, let dry 24 hours after each coat. Seems like a long time, but I found it necessary. Alternatively, you can use a water-based exterior paint, which will dry quicker.

4. Reattach the wooden slats to the chairs with a screwdriver.

5. Create your desired pattern by adhering dot stickers to the tabletop. Use a yard stick to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. If you need to move a sticker, lift a corner with the tip of your craft knife and discard the sticker. Do not reuse stickers. They don’t stick as well the second time.

6. Make sure all the stickers are adhering well, then paint one coat of clear medium over all of them. This step is important. If you don’t use the medium, the paint will bleed under the stickers. I know from experience. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint over the entire top surface. Again, let dry 24 hours after each coat.

7. Peel off all the dot stickers. Use your craft knife to lift an edge, then peel off. You may need to remove some adhesive residue with a cleaner such as Goo Gone.

8. Paint 2-3 coats of blue on the bottom of the tabletop. Let dry after each coat. This will protect the wood from the weather on all sides.

9. It turned out that my table base wasn’t rusty, just the hardware was, so I replaced all the bolts and screws. A fresh coat of glossy black indoor/outdoor spray paint (along with new hardware) made the base look good as new.

10. Reassemble the base and place it on the bottom surface of the tabletop. Make sure it’s centered, then mark where the holes should be drilled. Set the legs aside and drill the holes. Make a little flag with painter’s tape on the drill bit marking how deep you should go. This will keep you from accidentally drilling all the way through the tabletop.

11. Drive wood screws into the pre-drilled holes to attach the base to the tabletop.

12. Take the bistro set to your favorite spot outdoors and enjoy!

I haven’t finished this week’s project yet, so here’s a sneak peek. I picked up this table curbside last year. The top was weathered and warped, and the base was rusted but sturdy. Then I found these French bistro chairs at Ikea, a replacement tabletop at The Home Depot, and exterior paint on Freecycle. I decided to paint the set to match—but not just any paint job. Problem is, the oil-based paint is taking forever to dry, so please check back next week to see the reveal.

I told you I had a plan for the mini chests that were leftover from my DIY rolling toolbox. I had a plethora of printer paper and envelopes and nowhere to store it all. The solution: stack three mini chests together, add molding, casters, and paint—and voilà a paper organizer. The casters were leftover from Ikea plant glides that I used to make my starburst mirror and nailhead clock. What can I say? I’m a very organized pack rat. I get it from my dad.

Three Ikea mini chests = paper organizer

Supplies
3 Ikea Fira mini chests
8 feet of 3/4-inch molding (found mine at Lowe’s)
8 feet of 1-1/4-inch molding (got mine on Freecycle)
wood glue
1/2-inch wire brads (small nails)
1-1/4-inch finish nails
2 pieces of 10-1/4- x 13-15/16-inch plywood (my plywood was leftover from my shoebox shelves project)
wood filler
primer (I used Kilz 2 latex primer)
paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15] in satin finish)
newspaper or drop cloth

Tools
hammer
sanding block and fine sandpaper
miter box and pull saw (or electric saw)
drill and 1/16 and 15/32 drill bits
screwdriver
nail set
3-inch foam paint brush
paint-can opener
tack cloth and latex gloves (optional)

1. Assemble the mini chests per the instructions. Do not insert the shelves yet.

2. Stack the mini chests on top of each other. Attach them together by hammering four wire brads (one near each corner) into the bottom shelf of the top two chests.

3. Take one of your pieces of plywood and drill a 15/32-inch hole one inch from each corner. Hammer in the plastic pieces that hold the caster pins, then insert the casters.

4. Turn your shelf unit upside down. Apply a bit of wood glue to one side of your plywood. Place the shelf unit on top of the glued side. Using four finish nails, attach it from the inside—one nail near each corner. Repeat for the bottom piece of plywood that already has casters attached.

5. Cut all the pieces of molding. Make sure you miter the front corners at 45 degrees. I used the larger molding at the top and bottom and the smaller molding on the two middle shelves. I was able to cut the smaller pieces with a miter box and pull saw, but the larger pieces needed to be cut with an electric saw (thanks, Tony!). The inside measurement for the front pieces is 13-15/16 inches. The inside measurement for the side pieces is 10-1/4 inches.

6. Apply a line of glue, then place the trim piece.

7. Pre-drill three holes in each trim piece using your 1/16-inch drill bit (so the wood won’t split). Hammer the finish nails into the holes. Make sure two nails are connected to one of the chests, and one is connected to the other. Use a nail set to get the nails just below the surface of the wood.

8. Repeat for each piece of molding. Fill in the nail holes with wood filler.

9. Insert the shelves according to the instructions. Sand away all the rough edges and excessive wood filler.

10. Paint one coat of primer. Let dry about 15 minutes. Lightly sand with fine sandpaper. Remove the dust with a tack cloth (use gloves if you wish). Then apply two coats of paint, letting dry after each coat. No need to paint all the way inside each shelf. Just paint as far back as you can reach. Because it’s on wheels, paint the back of the organizer as well.

11. Fill the shelves with paper, envelopes, cards, or other stationery items. Place it near your desk within easy reach.

I posted a sneak peek of this project in May. It took me a couple months, not a couple weeks, but my tool cabinet is finally finished. I outgrew my toolbox end tables, but I refused to pay hundreds of dollars for one of those ugly Craftsman tool chests. Handles on both sides make this bureau easy to pull around. Ikea’s mini drawers form dividers and lift-out trays. What about the mini chests left over? I have a plan for those (coming soon). Please come back Friday to see my complete tool/craft corner.

Old dresser = rolling tool cabinet

The total cost of the dresser, hardware, paint, and drawer dividers came to $110. I call that a deal.

Supplies

• old dresser
• wood filler
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Dream I Can Fly [769] satin finish)
• painter’s tape
• drawer handles (I used Ikea Lansa handles)
• casters (I used Ikea Rill locking casters) and wood screws
• 3 Ikea Fira mini chests with five drawers
• latex gloves (optional)

Tools

• screwdriver
• hammer & nails
• drill and 1/16, 3/32, and 3/8 drill bits
• sanding block and sandpaper
• wide foam paint brush
• ruler and pencil
• tack cloth

1. Flip the dresser over. Prepare to install the casters. For me, that meant removing those pieces of wood.

2. Drill pilot holes, then screw on the caster plates. Mine are about 1/4 inch from the edge. I only used the locks on the two back wheels.

3. One of my drawer bottoms needed to be replaced. Instead of trying to find sturdy 5/16-inch thick wood, I disassembled a wooden wine box that I obtained on Freecycle.

4. After my friend and local woodworker cut the pieces to size, I drilled tiny pilot holes before hammering in the nails (so the thin wood wouldn’t split).

5. The top drawer didn’t have any guide rails to keep the drawer from tipping forward, so I attached scrap wood pieces underneath the top surface of the dresser.

6. Remove the wooden handles. Fill holes and imperfections with wood filler. When dry, lightly sand smooth.

7. Wipe the dresser down with a tack cloth to remove dust. Use latex gloves if you want to keep the stickiness off your hands.

8. Paint two coats of primer on the frame and drawer fronts.

9. Use painter’s tape along the edges of the drawer fronts as guides.

10. Apply two coats of paint to the frame and drawer fronts with a sponge brush—it gives a smoother surface than a roller or bristle brush. Let dry a couple hours after each coat. Be sure to paint the back as well. Measure, mark, and drill 3/8-inch holes for the handles. Attach the handles with a screwdriver. I installed the side handles the same height as the top drawer handle (6 inches from the top).

11. Assemble the Ikea Fira drawers per the instructions.

12. Insert the drawers in your desired configuration. Fill with your tools and crafting supplies. The top tray can slide back and forth or lift out.

I decided to try a different take on the tray table I made nearly a year ago. This time, it would have a more practical permanent top. Plus, it’s an ideal opportunity to use more of my furniture nails, which I adore. I’m volunteering at a girl’s camp next week, so I’ll post my next project in two weeks. Hope you’re all enjoying your summer!

Plant stand + lazy susan = mini side table

Supplies
Ikea lazy susan
plant stand
spray paint
12 large white furniture nails
36 small white furniture nails
3 two-inch mending plates
large piece of paper (at least 15 inches square)
newspaper or drop cloth

Tools
rubber mallet
drill & 1/16-inch drill bit
screwdriver
scissors & pencil
needle-nosed pliers

1. To make a guide for evenly spacing out the furniture nails, trace the top of the lazy susan onto a piece of paper. Cut out the circle.

2. Here’s a no-measuring method to divide the circle into 12 equal pie pieces: Fold in half, then in half again the opposite direction. Then fold the outside edges into the center to create a square. Then fold the circle in half at each of the points where the square folds reach the edge. I’ve marked the lines so you can clearly see the folds. This gives you twelve points along the outside edge of your tabletop.

3. Spray paint the top of the lazy susan. Leave the base on so you can spin it while painting. If you don’t use a primer first, you’ll need to spray several coats (like I did). Let dry several hours.

4. Flip the lazy susan over. Use pliers to unscrew the nut. Then pull the base straight up and off.

5. Remove the four screws holding the turning mechanism. And, for goodness sake, remove the Ikea sticker. :-)

6. Place your pattern on your table top. Measure about half an inch from the edge, and drill a pilot hole at each point. The wood is hard and the nails are soft, so a pilot hole helps them go in straight. It’s ok if you accidentally drill all the way through on these. Then hammer a large furniture nail into each hole—but not all the way.

7. Tear the pattern away while leaving the furniture nails in place.

8. Hammer the large nails in the rest of the way. Place three small furniture nails between each large nail. Drill pilot holes for the small nails as well. Make sure you only drill down halfway for these. Insert them into the holes, then hammer them in the rest of the way.

9. Flip the table top over, and center the plant stand in the middle. Place the mending plates over each arm, drill pilot holes, then screw in all the screws halfway. Finally, tighten all the screws down snug against the arms of the plant stand.

10. Flip it over, grab a cold drink, and have a seat. :-)

I have a thing for train station clocks. This one is located outside of a restaurant I have yet to try. The pig adds a little whimsy, don’t you think?

I saw this shelf/table/cart on display in a local shop (photographed with permission). Fabulous design.

I am IN LOVE with this stainless steel mailbox. If I were a homeowner, I would buy one right now. It’s made by Ecco Products, and you can buy it at The Mailbox Works.

I kick myself that I didn’t buy one of these ceramic owl umbrella stands before Urban Outfitters sold out. They’re made by Two’s Company, and you can buy one at BurkeDecor.com (if you can wait until June) or MadisonAveGifts.com (at a higher price).

This weathered light fixture hangs outside a sleek, modern store. It’s so old, they style looks modern again. Love its swirls.

I actually shot this glitter-encrusted mobile last winter. It’s a Christmas decoration. I was going to make my own, but never got around to it. Maybe this year…

I am SO going to do this treatment on a piece of furniture soon. The harlequin pattern is fun, and the shape of the cabinet reminds me of Belle’s armoire in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast.

This being Craftynest, I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the giant nests in a nearby shop window. They’re made by Laura Del Fava, a local photostylist, not giant birds. :)

I bought this trolley for a steal on Craigslist. You may have seen it here. You can’t tell in the photo, but it’s banged up and rickety from years of use. My friend Peter added some reinforcement to make it sturdy, then I filled in the nicks with wood filler and oiled the squeaky wheels with WD-40. Finally, I made cosmetic changes—using paint and wallpaper left over from Sunset’s Menlo Park Idea House. Thanks, Sarah!

Wallpapered cart

Supplies

• latex primer
• latex paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15])
• craft glue (I used Mod Podge in matte)
• wallpaper
• painter’s tape

Tools

• paintbrush
• foam brush
• drop cloth
• scissors
• ruler & pencil
• craft knife (optional)
• brayer or small paint roller (optional)

1. First tape off the wheels with painter’s tape, then paint one coat of primer on the frame only. Let dry.

2. Apply two coats of paint (also to the frame only), letting it dry several hours in between coats.

3. Measure, mark, and cut the wallpaper to fit each of the three shelves.

4. Using a foam brush, paint glue in sections on the cart surface.

5. Smooth the wallpaper down with a brayer. I didn’t have a brayer, so I used a dry paint roller, which worked well. Keep adding glue and smoothing as you go. Trim any excess paper, if necessary, with a craft knife. Let dry for about an hour.

6. Add a top coat of glue to protect the surface of the wallpaper and make it easier to clean. It will cause slight bubbling of the wallpaper, but will lessen as the glue dries. As an alternative top coat, you could spray the wallpaper with clear lacquer.

7. Let the top coat dry overnight before using the cart.