Introducing a new guest nester! Australian Abby Matthews blogs about the things that inspire her at Two Little Dicky Birds. Abby’s remake of this tired, chipped pine dressing table reminds me of my wallpapered cart, but she used an entirely different (and better?) process, so I had to share it with you. Abby writes: “I was inspired by Bryonie Porter’s wallpapered furniture, but wasn’t confident that I could carry off wallpapering the entire table, so I decided to just apply the paper to the top. It was just as well, as I botched the first wallpaper application and used up the bulk of the paper the second time around. The wallpaper I used is a Florence Broadhurst design from an offcut won on eBay. It’s currently used as a writing/computer desk in our living area and is definitely my favourite piece of furniture.” Thanks, Abby!

Wallpapered dressing table

Supplies

• dressing table
• painter’s tape
• sandpaper
• sugar soap (a.k.a. TSP in the U.S.)
• sealer and primer
• spray paint
• wallpaper
• permanent spray adhesive
• clear acrylic spray

Tools

• cloth and/or tack cloth
• sanding block
• pencil
• scissors and/or Stanley knife (a.k.a. utility knife)

1. The dressing table originally came with a mirror attached. This was removed and set aside. Remove the drawers and either tape the handles with painters tape or remove completely and set aside.

2. If necessary, strip and prepare surface. Sand back any glossy varnish or peeling paint. Wipe clean with sugar soap (½ cup sugar soap to ½ bucket of water) and a cloth. Leave to dry. (Don’t forget the drawers!)

NB. If you want to leave the finish as it is, just give it a good clean with sugar soap and leave to dry.

3. Prime the surface before spray painting. This will reduce the number of coats required and prevent any bleed-through of remaining stain or paint. Dry according to instructions on can.

4. Lightly sand and wipe down with a damp rag or tack cloth.

5. Apply a coat of spray paint. It is best to spray a few light coats rather than a thicker coat as otherwise it will tend to run. Once you have sufficiently covered the dresser, leave it to dry overnight.

6. Cut the wallpaper to size. Roll it out, face down, on a clean, dry surface. Place the dresser upside down on the paper and trace around the outside with pencil. Cut with scissors or a Stanley knife. Turn dresser back upright and check the fit. You may need to trim it slightly for a better fit.

NB. As my dresser had a rounded edge I had to take 2-5mm (~1/8 inch) off to avoid papering the curved edge. It is difficult to adhere the wallpaper to a curve, so it’s best to stick with flat surfaces where possible.

7. Spray both the table and paper with permanent spray adhesive. Wait a few seconds until both feel tacky to the touch, otherwise they won’t stick (as I found out the hard way!). The dresser may need two coats as it can absorb quite a bit of glue. Now the tricky part: Line up the wallpaper with the top of the table, working quickly as the glue will stick quite quickly, smoothing out any air bubbles as you go. Leave to dry overnight or even for a couple of days. This is really important. Don’t be tempted to skip to the next step early or the paint finish is likely to run.

8. Brush or spray on clear acrylic. This helps the wallpaper bond to the furniture, protects it from spills and scratches, and makes it a lot easier to clean. If you’re using spray, you’ll need a few coats (five or more), leaving to dry (as per the manufacturer’s instructions) between each coat.

9. Reattach the handles on the drawers if you have removed them, and replace in the table. Congratulations – you’re all finished!

I could hardly wait to show you this Popsicle stick craft! These snowflakes are fun, easy, and so inexpensive to make. The smallest snowflake is 12 inches across; the largest is 24 inches. I had some rhinestones left over from my Christmas tree advent calendar, so I glued some at the tips of each white snowflake. You could also coat them in glitter or fake snow. And why stop with snowflakes? You could make stars, wreaths, or Christmas trees decked with lightweight ornaments. Hang them in your window, over a door instead of a wreath, or from the ceiling.

Giant craft stick snowflakes

Supplies and tools

• craft sticks
• protractor
• hot glue gun and glue
• fishing line
• clear cellophane tape
• 3/8- to 1/2-inch-wide holiday ribbon
• red and white paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura Steam [AF-15] and Caliente [AF-290])
• round 12mm rhinestones
• scissors
• double-stick foam tape
• small paintbrush
• drop cloth or newspaper

All my snowflakes are based on three basic patterns, which I will call star, hexagon, and rotated hexagon.

The star

1. Start by gluing six craft sticks in an asterisk shape at 30 degree angles. Use a protractor to make sure your angles are accurate.

2. Then add the points to the star.

3. Finally, depending on the pattern, add the final craft sticks to complete the snowflake.

The hexagon

1A. Start by gluing six craft sticks in an asterisk shape at 30 degree angles. Use a protractor to make sure your angles are accurate.

1B. For the mini hexagon, start with three craft sticks instead of six.

2. Add more sticks to expand the lengths.

3. Glue six sticks in a hexagon shape, then glue each point of the hexagon to your asterisk shape.

4. Finally, depending on the pattern, add the final craft sticks to complete the snowflake.

The rotated hexagon

1. Start by gluing six craft sticks in an asterisk shape at 30 degree angles. Use a protractor to make sure your angles are accurate.

2. Glue six sticks in a hexagon shape, then glue the middle of each side of the hexagon to your asterisk shape.

3. Finally, add the final craft sticks to complete the snowflake.

1. Using a small paintbrush, paint two coats of paint on each side, including the edges. I recommend spray paint instead because it’s easier and faster, but severe weather prohibited spray paint in my case. Let dry.

2. Glue rhinestones onto the tips of the snowflakes. Or glue on glitter or fake snow. Let dry/cool.

3. To hang them in the window, tie fishing line to each snowflake. Tape the fishing line to the top of the window frame with clear cellophane tape.

4. To hang them on the wall, tie a small ribbon bow to the snowflake, then tie a longer piece of ribbon to the back of the bow. Attach the long ribbon with double-stick foam tape at the very top of the wall.

I had a box of 1000 craft sticks and no idea what to do with them. I wasn’t about to start building 1980s Popsicle stick jewelry boxes. I eventually came up with some Christmas ideas. This advent calendar is my first craft stick project. I’ll post my other ideas next week. The advent calendar is easy but time consuming. I suggest you enlist some helpers to fold the “origami” boxes and tie ribbons and string. Technically, the boxes aren’t origami because they involve a few cuts, but they are assembled without tape or glue. Each box holds a piece of chocolate. The beauty is, you don’t have to remove the ribbon to open each box, so the calendar is reusable.

Craft stick advent calendar with “origami” boxes

Supplies and tools

• 24 craft sticks
• spray primer and spray paint (or any craft paint)
• hot glue gun and glue
• 25 sheets of letter size paper (or 13 sheets of 12×12 paper)
• box template (see #4 below)
• scissors
• 2 spools of 1/4-inch red grosgrain ribbon ( $1 each at Jo-Ann)
• 1 spool of red baker’s twine
• number stickers (I used three packages of Colorbök “Marshmallow Wacky” alphabet stickers from Jo-Ann)
• 9 round 12mm rhinestones
• thick red Sharpie marker
• double-sided foam tape
• candy

1. Glue craft sticks together end-to-end, overlapping about 1/2-inch in the following lengths: 6, 5, 4, 3, and 2. A trick to keeping each of them straight is to turn them sideways against the table while the glue cools. Then glue four sticks together in the center in a star shape.

2. Glue the “branches” of graduating lengths at each intersection along the longest strip of craft sticks, then glue the star to the top.

3. Paint the tree and star any color you want. (If you plan to paint the star a different color than the tree, it’s easier to paint the star before gluing it to the tree.) Hot glue rhinestones to each tip and center of the star.

4. For the boxes, you will need 50 4×4-inch sheets of paper with diagonal lines drawn through the center. Either use a ruler to measure and draw the lines yourself, or download and print this template onto 25 sheets of letter size paper. (Part of the lines on the template are outside of the printable area. Don’t worry about this. It was necessary to save you two extra cuts on each sheet.) Cut along the solid lines of the template. I used Hammermill 32 lb. color laser gloss paper because it’s what I had on hand. I recommend it because it’s a good weight, durable, and resists fingerprints.

5. Fold each of the four corners into the center and open back up again.

6. Then fold each corner diagonally so the tip touches the center of the opposite fold, then open back up again.

7. Cut (as shown) along four of the folds, stopping at the center square.

8. Fold two opposites sides into the center again (as shown).

9. Fold again along previous folds to form two sides of the box (as shown).

10. Tuck the top and bottom pieces over and inside the box.

11. This is either the top or bottom of your box. Repeat steps 5-10 for each box top/bottom (50 times). Told you this was time consuming.

12. Slide one box bottom/top into the other. You’ll need to pinch in the sides the first time to make it fit.

13. Each box will look like this when you are done.

14. I couldn’t find any packages of just number stickers, so I bought packages of alphabet/number stickers. Three packets gave me just enough numbers (I was one short “1″ sticker but I changed an “I” into a “1.” I couldn’t find red stickers, so I bought white ones and colored them red with a Sharpie marker. Color your stickers and let dry before peeling and sticking them on the boxes.

15. Tie a bunch of little nooses out of the red twine, then tie one noose to each box with a red ribbon bow.

16. Apply a small dot of hot glue under the knot of the bow and the string. This will keep the bow and string in place.

17. Hang each box by the twine noose.

18. Place candy inside each box. Dove Promises (one of my favorites) fit nicely.

19. Hang the boxes on the Christmas tree. Because there are an odd number of boxes and an even number of spaces, you’ll have to choose one branch that has one fewer boxes on it than the other.

20. Stick the tree to your wall with a small piece of double-sided foam tape at the top and bottom of the tree.

I know: Monica, you need to get your seasons straight, right? I’m celebrating Spring in November because I couldn’t wait four months to share these beauties. Besides, red and green makes it almost Christmasy. I’m sure you recognize this window that used to be a mirror. I decided I had too many mirrors in my apartment and not enough art. And one can never have too much white paint, I say. The botanical illustrations are from Köhler’s Medizinal-Pflanzen, a four-volume German book published in 1887. Botanicus.org scanned the nearly 300 drawings and made them available to download for free! © 1995-2009 Missouri Botanical Garden.

Window frame and (free!) botanical illustrations

1. Choose your desired botanical images and download them here (or buy prints here). I chose illustrations that have red in them because they went with my decor, but there are many gorgeous illustrations in a rainbow of colors as well.

2. Open your downloaded illustrations in a photo-editing software program (such as Photoshop) to resize and/or crop the images to fit your picture frames.

3. If you have a high quality printer, print your images. If not, save your files onto a flash drive or CD and take them to a photocopying service. I paid $1.78 for each 11×17-inch print at FedEx Office. Use a paper trimmer to trim to size.

4. Frame each print and hang them on the wall. Easy peasy.

For a step-by-step tutorial on painting and hanging a window frame, click here.

Our new guest nester, Maria Romvari, transformed this corner of her house for her Hungarian blog A Hoover-gáton is túl, and she’s sharing her tutorial with us! Maria used ordinary thrift store items—side table, vase, and mismatched frames—totaling $10.67 to create this stunning vignette. Another $17.75 spent on paint, primer, and a brush bring the total to less than $30. Add some of her own photos and candle holders, and she was ready to start the transformation. Maria loves the clean, fresh look of white (a girl after my own heart!), but her husband wasn’t keen on the idea (he said white reminds him of hospitals), so he suggested staining the tabletop. It all came together beautifully, don’t you think?

Side table

Supplies and tools

• latex paint (Maria used Olympic Dogwood Blossom [D20-1])
• primer
• wood stain (Maria used gunstock colored stain)
• satin polyurethane
• newspaper or drop cloth
• fine sandpaper
• paint brush
• screwdriver
• mineral spirits (needed to clean polyurethane off paint bush)

1. Disassemble the table. Lightly sand the base and legs.

2. Cover your work surface, then apply two coats of primer to the base and legs. Maria’s husband shared this tip that made painting the legs easier: Hammer a nail into the bottom of each leg so you can hold and spin the legs without touching the fresh paint. Great idea! Let the primer dry, then apply one to two coats of paint. Let dry between coats. When finished, let dry overnight.

3. Sand the tabletop smooth. Again, protect your work surface, then apply two to three coats of stain. Let dry and lightly sand between coats.

4. Apply two to three coats of polyurethane. Let dry and lightly sand between coats. Let dry overnight, then reassemble the table.

Frames

Supplies

• latex paint (Maria used Olympic Dogwood Blossom [D20-1])
• primer
• newspaper or drop cloth

1. Disassemble the picture frames. Protect your work surface, then apply two coats of primer. Let dry after each coat. Apply one to two coats of paint. Let dry between coats. Reassemble the frames, add mats and art or photos as desired. Don’t forget to clean the glass!

Vase

Supplies and tools

• spray paint (Maria used a vanilla white shade from Michaels)
• masking tape
• newspaper

1. Slice masking tape into various widths (or purchase tape in various widths) and tape around the vase in your desired pattern. Protect your work surface with newspaper, then spray with spray paint. Let dry.

Candle holders

Supplies and tools

• frosted glass spray paint
• newspaper
• votives/tealights

1. Clean and dry your glass candle holders. Cover your work surface with newspaper, then spray with frosted spray paint. Let dry.

Thanks, Maria! You can find her original post here.

What a difference a little color makes! I decided my white sunburst mirror was a little boring. It only looked good from an angle, where the shadows would emphasize the shapes. Straight on, it looked more like a plain white circle. So I grabbed some paint samples and started painting the sun’s rays. I’m happy how it turned out, but I think black would have looked good too. I really wanted to add some teardrop-shaped gems for a hint of bling, but couldn’t find any.

Sunburst mirror revamp

Supplies
Ikea lazy susan
7-inch round mirror
wood glue
teardrop shaped Woodsies
picture hanger and two small nails
primer
paint samples (I used white and Benjamin Moore Figi [AF-525])
toothpicks

Tools
small and medium paintbrush
fine sandpaper
tack cloth
drop cloth
pliers

1. Click here for the instructions to make the mirror.

2. Using a small paintbrush (I used a filbert), paint the top side of each teardrop. I started with a color palette of aquas and blues but decided to stick with just one color. The colors in this photo are Benjamin Moore Fiji (AF-525), Cool Aqua (2056-40), and Bermuda Teal (2044-50).

What can I make with an old picture frame that’s missing glass, a free fabric sample from FabMo, and an 8- x 10-inch LoRan magnet board that my friend Chris gave me? Another friend, Kristi, had an idea: a mini magnetic board. If you add a few more magnetic boards, frames, and coordinating fabrics, you could hang a whole collection of magnetic frames on the wall. They’re perfect for school photos, business cards, or other small ephemera. And you can easily swap out the fabric to fit the season.

Magnetic picture frame

Supplies and tools

• 8- x 10-inch picture frame
• LoRan magnet board
• fabric scrap (at least 8 x 10 inches)
• tape
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15] in satin finish)
• small and medium paintbrush
• newspaper or drop cloth
• rare-earth magnets (aka Mighty Magnets)

1. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry. Apply one coat of paint.

2. Use a small dry paintbrush to brush away the excess paint that pools among the ornate surfaces of the frame, then let dry. Apply a second coat of paint and repeat with the dry paintbrush.

3. If you’re not hanging the frame on the wall, it’s a good idea to paint the back side as well.

4. Iron your fabric piece.

5. Tightly wrap the fabric around the magnet board and tape in place.

6. Insert the fabric-covered magnet board into the frame, then insert the easel back. Add magnet, photos, etc.

I bought this little library table on Craigslist last year for $15. I loved its cute shape, but it needed lots of repairs. I pulled 21 (mostly bent) nails out of this thing—and filled twice as many holes. Then a few coats of shiny silver paint and a handmade stencil gave it an instant update. Like the stencil? Download the pattern to make your own. And the pink books? I covered a few beloved paperbacks with coordinating 12- x 12-inch scrapbooking paper.

Silver stenciled library side table

*Please see the note at step 7.

Supplies

• spray primer
• chrome spray paint
• white latex paint
• newspaper or drop cloth
• sandpaper or sanding block
• wood filler
• photo mount spray adhesive
• stencil board (available at art stores)

Tools

• tack cloth
• latex gloves (optional)
• utility knife
• self-healing mat
• small round paintbrush
• printer and paper

1. First, disassemble and repair the table you are refurbishing. For me, this required pulling out lots of nails and gluing some broken pieces.

2. Fill holes and nicks with wood filler, then let dry. Sand smooth with fine sandpaper. Remove dust with a tack cloth.

3. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry at least 15 minutes after each coat.

4. Spray 2-3 coats of silver spray paint, letting dry about 20 minutes between coats. Let dry overnight.

5. Download the stencil here. Don’t like my pattern? You’ll find some more free stencils here. Print it out, then attach it to a stencil board with spray adhesive.

6. Using a utility knife and a self-healing mat, cut out the stencil. It’s easier and more effective to turn the stencil, not the knife, when you cut round shapes.

7. Spray a light coat of adhesive on the back of the stencil, and let dry a minute or so. Or you can use stencil adhesive. Adhere the stencil in place. Using a fairly dry paintbrush, apply paint to the stencil in a thin coat. The stencil tends to bleed slightly, so immediately remove the stencil and paint a thicker coat of paint by hand, smoothing out the bleeds as you go.

*Note: The instructions above are how I did it, but I think there’s a better way. After step 3, spray a couple coats of white paint in the general area where you’re going to stencil, then skip to step 5 and 6. Trace the stencil onto Con-Tact paper and cut it out. When the paint is dry (I’d give it 24 hours), remove the backing and adhere the Con-Tact paper stencil onto the table. Continue with step 4, then peel off the Con-Tact paper. (If you try this, please let me know if it works for you!)

8. Let the paint dry. All done.

I had a scrap 4×4 piece of wood sitting around and decided to put it to use. Drilling the holes in this desk caddy was a bit harder than it looks. This was my third try. It made me wish for a drill press. But, if you have a steady hand and a good eye, a standard drill will work. I love that it echoes the shapes of the keys on the keyboard. I went with a sleek look, but you can paint or decoupage the caddy any way you want. Bonus: It makes a great bookend too.

Salvaged wood pencil and pen caddy

Supplies

• scrap 4×4 board (try Freecycle or a salvage yard)
• spray primer
• spray paint
• painter’s tape
• felt feet

Tools

• sanding block and sandpaper
• drop cloth
• drill and 1/2-inch drill bit
• tack cloth
• ruler and pencil

1. First cut the 4×4 in 4-inch pieces. (You might need more than one in case you mess up). Thanks Rick for cutting the wood for me!

2. Use a ruler and pencil to draw a grid to guide you when drilling the holes. My holes are about 1/2 inch from the edge and 1/2 inch from each other.

3. Measure three inches on the drill bit, and mark it with a flag of painter’s tape. This will ensure that all your holes are the same depth. Drill each of the holes, making sure that the drill is exactly straight up. I used a 1/2-inch drill bit, but if your pencils and pens are fatter, use a larger drill bit.

4. Sand all the sides smooth. Fill any nicks with wood filler, let dry, then sand smooth again. Remove dust with a tack cloth.

5. Apply one coat of spray primer. (I used regular primer because it’s what I had on hand.) Let dry, then lightly sand. Remove dust with a tack cloth, and apply another coat of primer. Let dry.

6. Apply three coats of spray paint, letting dry 15-20 minutes after each coat.

7. Stick felt feet on the bottom.

8. Load it up with your favorite pens and pencils. Enjoy!

The secret to painting this faux-mosaic table top? Dot stickers. Plus some white paint followed by a few coats of fabulous French blue paint. Add matching French bistro chairs (don’t you just adore these chairs?) and an old Ikea chandelier, and you’re ready for an al fresco candlelight dinner. But not just any dinner. Snag a copy of Julia Child’s cookbook and whip up a tasty French recipe for you and your honey. (If you haven’t seen Julie & Julia yet, go see it now!) Bon appétit.

Outdoor bistro table and café chairs

Supplies

• old metal or wood outdoor table
• café chairs (I used Ikea chairs)
• 2 exterior paint colors (I used KM Professional Weather Shield semi-gloss enamel in white and Galleon Blue [HL4288-3])
• primer (I used KM Professional Weather Shield exterior primer)
• about 200 3/4-inch dot stickers (available at stationery stores)
• fine sandpaper
• latex gloves
• clear artist’s medium
• painter’s tape

Tools

• drill and drill bit
• craft knife (such as an X-Acto knife)
• yardstick or long ruler
• pencil
• 2 sponge paint brushes
• drop cloth
• tack cloth
• screwdriver

1. First find an outdoor table to paint, then either paint some café chairs to match OR find café chairs in your favorite color and paint the table to match. (This tutorial assumes you went with the first option. I replaced the tabletop altogether with a 36-inch round laminated-pine tabletop from The Home Depot.)

2. Remove the wooden slats from the café chairs with a screwdriver. Remove and discard the old tabletop from the base. Lightly sand both the wooden slats and the new tabletop and remove the dust with a tack cloth.

3. Cover your work surface with a drop cloth. Paint one coat of primer on each side of the chair slats and tabletop. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint on all sides of the chair slats and 2-3 coats of white paint on the top side of the tabletop. If you use the same paint I did, let dry 24 hours after each coat. Seems like a long time, but I found it necessary. Alternatively, you can use a water-based exterior paint, which will dry quicker.

4. Reattach the wooden slats to the chairs with a screwdriver.

5. Create your desired pattern by adhering dot stickers to the tabletop. Use a yard stick to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. If you need to move a sticker, lift a corner with the tip of your craft knife and discard the sticker. Do not reuse stickers. They don’t stick as well the second time.

6. Make sure all the stickers are adhering well, then paint one coat of clear medium over all of them. This step is important. If you don’t use the medium, the paint will bleed under the stickers. I know from experience. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint over the entire top surface. Again, let dry 24 hours after each coat.

7. Peel off all the dot stickers. Use your craft knife to lift an edge, then peel off. You may need to remove some adhesive residue with a cleaner such as Goo Gone.

8. Paint 2-3 coats of blue on the bottom of the tabletop. Let dry after each coat. This will protect the wood from the weather on all sides.

9. It turned out that my table base wasn’t rusty, just the hardware was, so I replaced all the bolts and screws. A fresh coat of glossy black indoor/outdoor spray paint (along with new hardware) made the base look good as new.

10. Reassemble the base and place it on the bottom surface of the tabletop. Make sure it’s centered, then mark where the holes should be drilled. Set the legs aside and drill the holes. Make a little flag with painter’s tape on the drill bit marking how deep you should go. This will keep you from accidentally drilling all the way through the tabletop.

11. Drive wood screws into the pre-drilled holes to attach the base to the tabletop.

12. Take the bistro set to your favorite spot outdoors and enjoy!