Inspired by CB2's bamboo bath mat

I’m on a hot glue kick lately. This bath mat requires just three materials: shelf liner, hot glue, and 175 wine corks. How did I gather 175 wine corks, you ask? Working at Sunset had its perks. With all the wine tastings in that office, collecting corks was a cinch. So far, I’ve made a wine cork trivet with them and now this bath mat. My sister Christy gave me the genius idea of using non-adhesive shelf liner with a grip bottom, so it stays in place. The cork feels good on my bare feet, plus it goes perfectly with the natural color palette of my bathroom. Yeah, but how durable is it, you say? Hmm. I’ll test it out for a few weeks and let you know on Twitter how it holds up. This bath mat was inspired by CB2′s bamboo bath mat, which is perfectly lovely and affordable but too big for my tiny bathroom, hence this equally eco-friendly version. UPDATE: Check out this post to read more about whether to seal your bath mat.

Wine cork bath mat

Supplies

• 175 wine corks (plus a few extra to allow for mistakes)
• hot glue sticks
• non-adhesive shelf liner (I used Duck brand Smooth Top Easy Liner in taupe, found at Walmart. Or try [ribbed side down] Plast-O-Mat ribbed shelf liner, available at Ace Hardware, Bed Bath & Beyond or The Container Store)

Tools

• pocket knife (sharpened)
• cutting board (one that you won’t mind if it gets slightly damaged)
• rotary cutter and mat
• long ruler or yardstick
• hot glue gun
• coarse sand paper

1. Cut each cork in half lengthwise with a sharp pocket knife. Be patient and careful so you don’t cut a finger off. It’s best if you use natural cork wine corks that are similar length and width. Sand the bottoms flat if any of your cuts are jagged.

2. Arrange the corks into a rectangle, flat sides down. Use a ruler or the lines on a cutting mat to make sure your configuration of corks is as close to a straight rectangle as possible. My mat is 18.5 x 30 inches (10 x 35 cork halves)—a little smaller than a standard size bath mat, but then my bathroom is smaller than a standard size bathroom.

3. Measure and cut the shelf liner to size with a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat.

4. Transfer the outer rows/columns of corks to the shelf liner and glue them to the top side of the liner. Apply a rectangle-shaped line of glue to the flat side of each cork, about 1/8 inch from the edge, line up the cork with the edge of the mat, and press hard. Wipe away any glue dribbles before it hardens fully, but after it cools (so you don’t burn yourself).

5. Once your frame is in place, transfer the rest of the corks to their corresponding position on the mat. You’ll probably have to do some arranging and trading places to make all the corks fit. Then remove one cork at a time and glue it down. You’re done!

Here’s a last-minute idea for us last-minute gift wrappers. I felt guilty about discarding those round, sturdy cardboard canisters that hold nuts, cocoa, and other foods. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think they can be recycled (aluminum + cardboard?). But they definitely can be reused! Here, I covered them in gift wrap and tied on ribbon—and they can be reused year after year to hold anything from cookies to socks. Or you could wrap them in everyday decorative paper and use them as pencil holders or storage containers. I just thought they were too cute to toss. (The blue and green is for you, Carolyn!)

Reusable wrapped gift canisters

Supplies and tools

• wrapping paper
• scissors
• glue (I used rubber cement)
• ruler & pencil
• round cardboard food canisters
• clear cellophane tape
• ribbon
• paper towel

1. Clean out the empty canisters with a dry paper towel. Measure the height of the cardboard portion of the canister. (You will not cover the metal part of the can.)

2. Cut a piece of wrapping paper that height, roll it around the can, and trim to fit—leaving a couple inches of overlap.

3. Apply glue to one end of the paper, then stick it to the canister. Pull the paper tight as you wrap it around, then apply glue to the other end of the paper and press down. If you wish, you can apply glue to more than just the ends.

4. Reattach the lid and tie a bow around the package. For an awesome video tutorial on how to tie ribbon to packages Hollywood style (without knots) click here. Just tape the ribbon to the bottom of round packages first—it makes the process so much easier. By the way, thinner ribbon looks better and is easier to tie around small round packages.

5. Adjust the ribbon and cut ends as desired.

6. Tape the other side of the ribbon to the bottom as well.

7. You’re all done!

What a difference a little color makes! I decided my white sunburst mirror was a little boring. It only looked good from an angle, where the shadows would emphasize the shapes. Straight on, it looked more like a plain white circle. So I grabbed some paint samples and started painting the sun’s rays. I’m happy how it turned out, but I think black would have looked good too. I really wanted to add some teardrop-shaped gems for a hint of bling, but couldn’t find any.

Sunburst mirror revamp

Supplies
Ikea lazy susan
7-inch round mirror
wood glue
teardrop shaped Woodsies
picture hanger and two small nails
primer
paint samples (I used white and Benjamin Moore Figi [AF-525])
toothpicks

Tools
small and medium paintbrush
fine sandpaper
tack cloth
drop cloth
pliers

1. Click here for the instructions to make the mirror.

2. Using a small paintbrush (I used a filbert), paint the top side of each teardrop. I started with a color palette of aquas and blues but decided to stick with just one color. The colors in this photo are Benjamin Moore Fiji (AF-525), Cool Aqua (2056-40), and Bermuda Teal (2044-50).

What can I make with an old picture frame that’s missing glass, a free fabric sample from FabMo, and an 8- x 10-inch LoRan magnet board that my friend Chris gave me? Another friend, Kristi, had an idea: a mini magnetic board. If you add a few more magnetic boards, frames, and coordinating fabrics, you could hang a whole collection of magnetic frames on the wall. They’re perfect for school photos, business cards, or other small ephemera. And you can easily swap out the fabric to fit the season.

Magnetic picture frame

Supplies and tools

• 8- x 10-inch picture frame
• LoRan magnet board
• fabric scrap (at least 8 x 10 inches)
• tape
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15] in satin finish)
• small and medium paintbrush
• newspaper or drop cloth
• rare-earth magnets (aka Mighty Magnets)

1. Paint two coats of primer. Let dry. Apply one coat of paint.

2. Use a small dry paintbrush to brush away the excess paint that pools among the ornate surfaces of the frame, then let dry. Apply a second coat of paint and repeat with the dry paintbrush.

3. If you’re not hanging the frame on the wall, it’s a good idea to paint the back side as well.

4. Iron your fabric piece.

5. Tightly wrap the fabric around the magnet board and tape in place.

6. Insert the fabric-covered magnet board into the frame, then insert the easel back. Add magnet, photos, etc.

Why anyone would paint over window panes is beyond me. But that’s exactly what someone did to this window that I bought at a salvage yard for $20. It took a couple hours to scrape away all the stray paint and caulking, but the effort was totally worth it, considering I now have a fun beach-themed shadowbox. I tore all the tropical photos out of travel magazines. I can think of many other uses for salvaged windows, so there might be more window projects to come.

Salvaged window = shadowbox frame

Supplies

• painter’s tape
• primer
• latex paint
• window cleaner and paper towels
• masking tape
• double-sided mounting tape
• cardboard (one piece big enough to insert in the back of the window frame)
• fabric (large enough to cover the cardboard)
• photos, postcards, seashells, or other memorabilia

Tools

• paint scraper
• paint brush
• vacuum
• utility knife and/or X-Acto knife
• self-healing mat
• scissors
• pencil
• metal ruler
• iron and ironing board

1. Using a paint scraper, remove all the stray paint and caulking. Vacuum up the paint dust and scrub the window clean.

2. OK, now I know why a lazy painter would skip this step. Taping off each window pane is tedious (but necessary) work. The fastest and most precise method is to tape all four sides of one pane letting the excess tape overlap, trim each end with an X-Acto knife, then move to the next pane.

3. Fill and sand holes, as necessary. Wipe clean. Paint one coat of primer. Let dry. Paint two coats of paint. Let dry overnight. Flip it over, and repeat on the other side.

4. Carefully peel off the tape when the paint is dry.

5. Using a utility knife, metal ruler, and self healing mat, measure and cut a large piece of cardboard to fit the opening in the back of the window. I got this large piece of cardboard from Freecycle.

6. Iron a piece of fabric that’s large enough to cover the front of the cardboard and wrap around the edge at least an inch.

7. Wrap the fabric around the front of the cardboard. Tape the overlap to the back with masking tape.

8. Insert the fabric-wrapped cardboard into the window to make sure it fits. Lay on your work surface and arrange your photos and memorabilia as desired. Then move the window aside.

9. Using double-sided mounting tape, affix the photos and other items in place.

10. Insert the piece of cardboard in the window. Mine was such a snug fit that it stayed in place on its own. If yours is loose, you can tape or screw the cardboard in place.

11. I leaned mine against the wall, but you could also hang it vertically or horizontally with two keyhole fasteners. Hang from a stud or use a drywall anchors or molly bolts.

This project is what Elizabeth would call “finding crap on the curb and making something fabulous.” I found this mint green railing (from a crib? shelves?) in a pile of debris. Add galvanized wall pocket planters (on clearance at Jo-Ann for $1.50 each), daisy hooks (thanks, Kristi), spice rack ($3.50 at a thrift store), paper/pen bin (thanks, Jim), dowels and wire for hooks (Freecycle), and I’ve got a cheap craft organizing solution. A power strip and a salvaged bench vice (thanks, dad) attached to the rolling toolbox make it complete. Can’t wait to use it!

Craft and tool station

Supplies

• salvaged railing (from an old crib, porch railing, etc.)
• wood screws
• wire (to make hooks)
• 3/8-inch dowels
• power strip
• nuts, washers, and bolts
• primer
• paint
• scrap 1×4 piece of wood
• newspaper or drop cloth
• drywall anchors or molly bolts (optional)

Tools

• pliers
• wire cutters
• drill and drill bits
• screwdriver
• sanding block and sandpaper
• miter box and pull saw
• small sponge paint brush
• stud sensor (optional)

1. If you can’t find hooks that will work with your railing, get some wire and make some yourself. Use pliers to bend into shape, then cut with wire cutters. I made 18 hooks.

2. Cut your scrap piece of wood into four 2- x 3-inch pieces, then drill a 7/16-inch hole at one end of each piece. These will hold the dowels.

3. Prime (one coat) and paint (two coats) the dowel holders.

4. Attach the dowel holders to the railing with wood screws. Drill two holes in the dowel holders, then drill matching holes in the railing.

5. Counter-sink the holes with a larger drill bit, then screw in 1-3/4-inch wood screws.

6. Attach the railing to the wall at the top and bottom with four long screws. Find a stud to hang them from or use molly bolts.

7. Cut your dowels so they stick out at least a half inch beyond the dowel holders. Slide ribbon and paper onto the dowels, then insert into the holders. Hang all your bins/pegs/etc. on the rack using the hooks you made. Fill with craft supplies.

8. Mount a power strip to the side of your workstation. Use screws or nails. Make a pencil-rubbing template of the back of the power strip on scrap paper first to determine where to place the nails/screws.

9. Attach the bench vice to the front left corner (if you’re right-handed) of your work surface using bolts, washers, and nuts.

My sister Christy came up with this super easy idea—and I love it. Even better: I had all the supplies on hand. No, I don’t drink wine, but I have plenty of friends who do. They saved their corks for a big project I have planned. I could spare a few for this trivet. You can make these any size or shape you want. They’d also be great as coasters.

Wine cork trivet

Supplies

• 31 wine corks (all the same height)
• 1-1/2 yards of 7/8-inch-wide ribbon

Tools

• hot glue gun & glue
• scissors
• fine sand paper
• sharp serrated kitchen knife
• cutting board

1. Cut each wine cork in half with the kitchen knife. Try to cut as close to the middle as possible, so each will be the same height.

2. Sand the rough edges smooth and even out the height, if necessary.

3. Arrange the wine corks in your desired pattern.

4. Flip all the corks over, then start by gluing the center line together. A thin line of glue along the side is sufficient.

5. Then glue more corks, one by one, onto that center line until they are all glued together.

6. Start gluing the ribbon to the outside edge of the trivet. Squeeze a thin line of glue between each cork (one at a time), and then press the ribbon into the crevice. Let the last line of glue cool a bit before gluing the next (so you can pull the ribbon tight).

7. When you reach the end, trim the ribbon, apply the final line of glue, and press the end into the crevice.

8. Pick off the inevitable hot glue strands, let it cool, and you’re done.

I decided to try a different take on the tray table I made nearly a year ago. This time, it would have a more practical permanent top. Plus, it’s an ideal opportunity to use more of my furniture nails, which I adore. I’m volunteering at a girl’s camp next week, so I’ll post my next project in two weeks. Hope you’re all enjoying your summer!

Plant stand + lazy susan = mini side table

Supplies
Ikea lazy susan
plant stand
spray paint
12 large white furniture nails
36 small white furniture nails
3 two-inch mending plates
large piece of paper (at least 15 inches square)
newspaper or drop cloth

Tools
rubber mallet
drill & 1/16-inch drill bit
screwdriver
scissors & pencil
needle-nosed pliers

1. To make a guide for evenly spacing out the furniture nails, trace the top of the lazy susan onto a piece of paper. Cut out the circle.

2. Here’s a no-measuring method to divide the circle into 12 equal pie pieces: Fold in half, then in half again the opposite direction. Then fold the outside edges into the center to create a square. Then fold the circle in half at each of the points where the square folds reach the edge. I’ve marked the lines so you can clearly see the folds. This gives you twelve points along the outside edge of your tabletop.

3. Spray paint the top of the lazy susan. Leave the base on so you can spin it while painting. If you don’t use a primer first, you’ll need to spray several coats (like I did). Let dry several hours.

4. Flip the lazy susan over. Use pliers to unscrew the nut. Then pull the base straight up and off.

5. Remove the four screws holding the turning mechanism. And, for goodness sake, remove the Ikea sticker. :-)

6. Place your pattern on your table top. Measure about half an inch from the edge, and drill a pilot hole at each point. The wood is hard and the nails are soft, so a pilot hole helps them go in straight. It’s ok if you accidentally drill all the way through on these. Then hammer a large furniture nail into each hole—but not all the way.

7. Tear the pattern away while leaving the furniture nails in place.

8. Hammer the large nails in the rest of the way. Place three small furniture nails between each large nail. Drill pilot holes for the small nails as well. Make sure you only drill down halfway for these. Insert them into the holes, then hammer them in the rest of the way.

9. Flip the table top over, and center the plant stand in the middle. Place the mending plates over each arm, drill pilot holes, then screw in all the screws halfway. Finally, tighten all the screws down snug against the arms of the plant stand.

10. Flip it over, grab a cold drink, and have a seat. :-)

So sorry for the suspense regarding my toolbox dresser project. I haven’t made much progress on it yet. In the meantime, I decided to make a starburst mirror. This project was a cinch because I learned from the mistakes I made on my sunburst mirror. The basic materials for this one: an Ikea plant glide (which I also used for my furniture-nail clock), wooden plant markers, and wooden skewers.

Starburst mirror

Supplies

• Ikea Bjurön plant glide
• 2 dozen 5-inch wooden plant markers (available at nurseries)
• 2 dozen 5-3/4-inch wooden plant markers (available at nurseries)
• 2 dozen wooden skewers (with two flat sides)
• 7-inch round mirror
• silver spray paint
• wood glue
• wooden tooth pick
• sawtooth picture hanger
• Con-Tact paper (color doesn’t matter)
• newspaper or drop cloth
• paper towel
• books that are the same thickness as the plant glide

Tools

• hammer & nail
• small sponge paint brush
• scissors
• wire cutters
• pencil & ruler
• sanding block & fine sand paper
• tack cloth

1. Trace the mirror onto the Con-Tact paper. Cut out the circle, peel the backing, and adhere to the front of the mirror. This will protect the mirror from spray paint later.

2. Glue the mirror onto the plant glide, making sure it’s centered (about 2-1/4 inches from the edges). Set aside to let the glue dry.

3. Using the wire cutters, cut about two inches off of the flat end of the skewers, so each skewer is about eight inches long.

4. Lightly sand the rough edges of all the plant markers and skewers. Wipe off the dust with a tack cloth.

5. Arrange your pattern around the mirror. Use the books to prop up the plant markers and skewers.

6. Remove a plant marker or skewer one at a time and apply glue to about two inches of the end of it. Spread the glue with a paint brush. Adhere the piece back in place, then move on to the next one. Make sure the starbursts point directly away from the mirror. Pull the books away as you progress.

7. After all the plant markers and skewers are glued on, remove any excess glue from between the pieces by scraping with a toothpick.

8. When the glue is dry, flip the mirror over and arrange your pattern on the back. Evenly space out the skewers then fill in with the plant markers. Apply the glue the same as you did in step 6.

9. When all the pieces are glued down, let dry about an hour. Notice my pieces are not perfectly symmetrical with the front. I did this to give the pattern a more random feel.

10. Attach a sawtooth picture hanger on the back of the mirror.

11. Spray the mirror with several coats of paint to make sure the entire surface is covered. Let dry 15 minutes after each coat.

12. When the paint is completely dry, peel off the Con-Tact paper.

13. Hammer a nail into the wall, and hang the mirror.

My first project on Craftynest was a spice rack. So it’s fitting that, nearly a year later, I work on another one. I bought this old Spice Islands rack at a thrift store for $3.50. After dumping out the ancient spices, soaking off what was left of the labels, and laboriously scrubbing the jars, they were finally ready to hold my beads. And a little paint took care of the grimy, discolored rack.

Old spice rack = bead storage

Supplies

• old spice rack
• primer (I used Kilz 2 latex primer)
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15])
• dish soap
• paper towel or rag

Tools

• bottle brush
• sponge paint brush
• drop cloth
• paint stirrer
• paint can opener

1. Soak the labels off, then scrub the jars and lids clean. I used a baby-bottle brush and dish soap. Let dry.

2. Dust and clean the rack with a damp paper towel. Dry it off, then paint two coats of primer. Let dry for about 15 minutes after each coat. Then apply three coats of paint, letting it dry about 30 minutes in between coats.

3. Stuff a paper towel inside each jar to make sure it’s completely dry. Then fill the jars with beads, buttons, paper clips, or other small knick-knacks.