Inspired by CB2's bamboo bath mat

I’m on a hot glue kick lately. This bath mat requires just three materials: shelf liner, hot glue, and 175 wine corks. How did I gather 175 wine corks, you ask? Working at Sunset had its perks. With all the wine tastings in that office, collecting corks was a cinch. So far, I’ve made a wine cork trivet with them and now this bath mat. My sister Christy gave me the genius idea of using non-adhesive shelf liner with a grip bottom, so it stays in place. The cork feels good on my bare feet, plus it goes perfectly with the natural color palette of my bathroom. Yeah, but how durable is it, you say? Hmm. I’ll test it out for a few weeks and let you know on Twitter how it holds up. This bath mat was inspired by CB2′s bamboo bath mat, which is perfectly lovely and affordable but too big for my tiny bathroom, hence this equally eco-friendly version. UPDATE: Check out this post to read more about whether to seal your bath mat.

Wine cork bath mat

Supplies

• 175 wine corks (plus a few extra to allow for mistakes)
• hot glue sticks
• non-adhesive shelf liner (I used Duck brand Smooth Top Easy Liner in taupe, found at Walmart. Or try [ribbed side down] Plast-O-Mat ribbed shelf liner, available at Ace Hardware, Bed Bath & Beyond or The Container Store)

Tools

• pocket knife (sharpened)
• cutting board (one that you won’t mind if it gets slightly damaged)
• rotary cutter and mat
• long ruler or yardstick
• hot glue gun
• coarse sand paper

1. Cut each cork in half lengthwise with a sharp pocket knife. Be patient and careful so you don’t cut a finger off. It’s best if you use natural cork wine corks that are similar length and width. Sand the bottoms flat if any of your cuts are jagged.

2. Arrange the corks into a rectangle, flat sides down. Use a ruler or the lines on a cutting mat to make sure your configuration of corks is as close to a straight rectangle as possible. My mat is 18.5 x 30 inches (10 x 35 cork halves)—a little smaller than a standard size bath mat, but then my bathroom is smaller than a standard size bathroom.

3. Measure and cut the shelf liner to size with a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat.

4. Transfer the outer rows/columns of corks to the shelf liner and glue them to the top side of the liner. Apply a rectangle-shaped line of glue to the flat side of each cork, about 1/8 inch from the edge, line up the cork with the edge of the mat, and press hard. Wipe away any glue dribbles before it hardens fully, but after it cools (so you don’t burn yourself).

5. Once your frame is in place, transfer the rest of the corks to their corresponding position on the mat. You’ll probably have to do some arranging and trading places to make all the corks fit. Then remove one cork at a time and glue it down. You’re done!

Compare to Pottery Barn Teen's fabulous but expensive Style Tiles

Whenever I speak to my dad on the phone, he always asks, “Miss me?” This past month I’ve been getting concerned emails, so apparently some of you missed me—or at least my weekly blog posts. I’ve missed you too. I think I just needed a break. But I’m happy to say I’m back. I’ll be posting every week again. And sending long overdue responses to your emails and comments (my apologies!). This pin board project started with a friend’s broken, holey bulletin board and some free fabric samples. I just added copious amounts of hot glue and some white paint. It reminds me of Pottery Barn Teen’s Style Tiles—which are $340. Mine only cost me about $7.

Salvaged patchwork bulletin board

Alternatively, of course, this look could also be achieved by sewing the fabric pieces together and wrapping the entirety of bulletin board. However, my sewing machine is on the fritz, and I like this method better anyway.

Supplies

• salvaged bulletin board
• cardboard or illustration board
• 6 fabric squares
• hot glue sticks
• finish nails
• sand paper
• wood putty
• white paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura Steam [AF-15])
• primer (I used Kilz 2 latex primer)
• drop cloth
• thumb tacks

Tools

• hot glue gun
• hammer
• nail set
• paint brush
• drill and small drill bit
• utility knife
• self-healing mat
• long metal ruler or yardstick
• pencil
• iron & ironing board
• scissors

1. Measure the bulletin board, divide it into six squares, and mark with a pencil. Number each square so you know where each piece goes when you assemble it later.

2. Protect your work surface with a self-healing mat. Using a utility knife, cut along the lines you drew. It will take several passes to cut all the way through.

3. Cut your fabric pieces 2-3 inches larger than the bulletin squares. Iron each piece flat, then determine your placement. (I know. This is not how mine ended up. What can I say? Oops.)

4. Cut out a notch at each corner, then fold over the top and bottom and hot glue them to the back of the square.

5. Then glue down the left and right sides. Repeat for all six squares. Set them aside.

6. Reassemble the frame. I found the best way to fix a broken frame like this is to pre-drill a small hole at each corner (to keep the wood from splitting), then drive in finish nails with a hammer. Use a nail set to drive them beneath the surface, fill with wood putty, then sand smooth when dry. Protect your work surface with a drop cloth, then paint two coats of primer and 1-2 coats of paint, letting dry between coats. I painted the front and back for a more professional look.

7. When the frame is completely dry, insert the four corner pieces first, then the two middle pieces.

8. Measure and cut an illustration board to cover the back of the bulletin board just inside the frame.

9. Moving from left to right, hot glue about nine inches of the illustration board at a time and press down until the entire back of the bulletin squares are covered.

10. Turn it over, trim any loose threads, hang the pin board on the wall, then tack up whatever ephemera you choose.

Why anyone would paint over window panes is beyond me. But that’s exactly what someone did to this window that I bought at a salvage yard for $20. It took a couple hours to scrape away all the stray paint and caulking, but the effort was totally worth it, considering I now have a fun beach-themed shadowbox. I tore all the tropical photos out of travel magazines. I can think of many other uses for salvaged windows, so there might be more window projects to come.

Salvaged window = shadowbox frame

Supplies

• painter’s tape
• primer
• latex paint
• window cleaner and paper towels
• masking tape
• double-sided mounting tape
• cardboard (one piece big enough to insert in the back of the window frame)
• fabric (large enough to cover the cardboard)
• photos, postcards, seashells, or other memorabilia

Tools

• paint scraper
• paint brush
• vacuum
• utility knife and/or X-Acto knife
• self-healing mat
• scissors
• pencil
• metal ruler
• iron and ironing board

1. Using a paint scraper, remove all the stray paint and caulking. Vacuum up the paint dust and scrub the window clean.

2. OK, now I know why a lazy painter would skip this step. Taping off each window pane is tedious (but necessary) work. The fastest and most precise method is to tape all four sides of one pane letting the excess tape overlap, trim each end with an X-Acto knife, then move to the next pane.

3. Fill and sand holes, as necessary. Wipe clean. Paint one coat of primer. Let dry. Paint two coats of paint. Let dry overnight. Flip it over, and repeat on the other side.

4. Carefully peel off the tape when the paint is dry.

5. Using a utility knife, metal ruler, and self healing mat, measure and cut a large piece of cardboard to fit the opening in the back of the window. I got this large piece of cardboard from Freecycle.

6. Iron a piece of fabric that’s large enough to cover the front of the cardboard and wrap around the edge at least an inch.

7. Wrap the fabric around the front of the cardboard. Tape the overlap to the back with masking tape.

8. Insert the fabric-wrapped cardboard into the window to make sure it fits. Lay on your work surface and arrange your photos and memorabilia as desired. Then move the window aside.

9. Using double-sided mounting tape, affix the photos and other items in place.

10. Insert the piece of cardboard in the window. Mine was such a snug fit that it stayed in place on its own. If yours is loose, you can tape or screw the cardboard in place.

11. I leaned mine against the wall, but you could also hang it vertically or horizontally with two keyhole fasteners. Hang from a stud or use a drywall anchors or molly bolts.

I had a scrap 4×4 piece of wood sitting around and decided to put it to use. Drilling the holes in this desk caddy was a bit harder than it looks. This was my third try. It made me wish for a drill press. But, if you have a steady hand and a good eye, a standard drill will work. I love that it echoes the shapes of the keys on the keyboard. I went with a sleek look, but you can paint or decoupage the caddy any way you want. Bonus: It makes a great bookend too.

Salvaged wood pencil and pen caddy

Supplies

• scrap 4×4 board (try Freecycle or a salvage yard)
• spray primer
• spray paint
• painter’s tape
• felt feet

Tools

• sanding block and sandpaper
• drop cloth
• drill and 1/2-inch drill bit
• tack cloth
• ruler and pencil

1. First cut the 4×4 in 4-inch pieces. (You might need more than one in case you mess up). Thanks Rick for cutting the wood for me!

2. Use a ruler and pencil to draw a grid to guide you when drilling the holes. My holes are about 1/2 inch from the edge and 1/2 inch from each other.

3. Measure three inches on the drill bit, and mark it with a flag of painter’s tape. This will ensure that all your holes are the same depth. Drill each of the holes, making sure that the drill is exactly straight up. I used a 1/2-inch drill bit, but if your pencils and pens are fatter, use a larger drill bit.

4. Sand all the sides smooth. Fill any nicks with wood filler, let dry, then sand smooth again. Remove dust with a tack cloth.

5. Apply one coat of spray primer. (I used regular primer because it’s what I had on hand.) Let dry, then lightly sand. Remove dust with a tack cloth, and apply another coat of primer. Let dry.

6. Apply three coats of spray paint, letting dry 15-20 minutes after each coat.

7. Stick felt feet on the bottom.

8. Load it up with your favorite pens and pencils. Enjoy!

The secret to painting this faux-mosaic table top? Dot stickers. Plus some white paint followed by a few coats of fabulous French blue paint. Add matching French bistro chairs (don’t you just adore these chairs?) and an old Ikea chandelier, and you’re ready for an al fresco candlelight dinner. But not just any dinner. Snag a copy of Julia Child’s cookbook and whip up a tasty French recipe for you and your honey. (If you haven’t seen Julie & Julia yet, go see it now!) Bon appétit.

Outdoor bistro table and café chairs

Supplies

• old metal or wood outdoor table
• café chairs (I used Ikea chairs)
• 2 exterior paint colors (I used KM Professional Weather Shield semi-gloss enamel in white and Galleon Blue [HL4288-3])
• primer (I used KM Professional Weather Shield exterior primer)
• about 200 3/4-inch dot stickers (available at stationery stores)
• fine sandpaper
• latex gloves
• clear artist’s medium
• painter’s tape

Tools

• drill and drill bit
• craft knife (such as an X-Acto knife)
• yardstick or long ruler
• pencil
• 2 sponge paint brushes
• drop cloth
• tack cloth
• screwdriver

1. First find an outdoor table to paint, then either paint some café chairs to match OR find café chairs in your favorite color and paint the table to match. (This tutorial assumes you went with the first option. I replaced the tabletop altogether with a 36-inch round laminated-pine tabletop from The Home Depot.)

2. Remove the wooden slats from the café chairs with a screwdriver. Remove and discard the old tabletop from the base. Lightly sand both the wooden slats and the new tabletop and remove the dust with a tack cloth.

3. Cover your work surface with a drop cloth. Paint one coat of primer on each side of the chair slats and tabletop. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint on all sides of the chair slats and 2-3 coats of white paint on the top side of the tabletop. If you use the same paint I did, let dry 24 hours after each coat. Seems like a long time, but I found it necessary. Alternatively, you can use a water-based exterior paint, which will dry quicker.

4. Reattach the wooden slats to the chairs with a screwdriver.

5. Create your desired pattern by adhering dot stickers to the tabletop. Use a yard stick to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. If you need to move a sticker, lift a corner with the tip of your craft knife and discard the sticker. Do not reuse stickers. They don’t stick as well the second time.

6. Make sure all the stickers are adhering well, then paint one coat of clear medium over all of them. This step is important. If you don’t use the medium, the paint will bleed under the stickers. I know from experience. Let dry. Then paint 2-3 coats of blue paint over the entire top surface. Again, let dry 24 hours after each coat.

7. Peel off all the dot stickers. Use your craft knife to lift an edge, then peel off. You may need to remove some adhesive residue with a cleaner such as Goo Gone.

8. Paint 2-3 coats of blue on the bottom of the tabletop. Let dry after each coat. This will protect the wood from the weather on all sides.

9. It turned out that my table base wasn’t rusty, just the hardware was, so I replaced all the bolts and screws. A fresh coat of glossy black indoor/outdoor spray paint (along with new hardware) made the base look good as new.

10. Reassemble the base and place it on the bottom surface of the tabletop. Make sure it’s centered, then mark where the holes should be drilled. Set the legs aside and drill the holes. Make a little flag with painter’s tape on the drill bit marking how deep you should go. This will keep you from accidentally drilling all the way through the tabletop.

11. Drive wood screws into the pre-drilled holes to attach the base to the tabletop.

12. Take the bistro set to your favorite spot outdoors and enjoy!

I haven’t finished this week’s project yet, so here’s a sneak peek. I picked up this table curbside last year. The top was weathered and warped, and the base was rusted but sturdy. Then I found these French bistro chairs at Ikea, a replacement tabletop at The Home Depot, and exterior paint on Freecycle. I decided to paint the set to match—but not just any paint job. Problem is, the oil-based paint is taking forever to dry, so please check back next week to see the reveal.

This project is what Elizabeth would call “finding crap on the curb and making something fabulous.” I found this mint green railing (from a crib? shelves?) in a pile of debris. Add galvanized wall pocket planters (on clearance at Jo-Ann for $1.50 each), daisy hooks (thanks, Kristi), spice rack ($3.50 at a thrift store), paper/pen bin (thanks, Jim), dowels and wire for hooks (Freecycle), and I’ve got a cheap craft organizing solution. A power strip and a salvaged bench vice (thanks, dad) attached to the rolling toolbox make it complete. Can’t wait to use it!

Craft and tool station

Supplies

• salvaged railing (from an old crib, porch railing, etc.)
• wood screws
• wire (to make hooks)
• 3/8-inch dowels
• power strip
• nuts, washers, and bolts
• primer
• paint
• scrap 1×4 piece of wood
• newspaper or drop cloth
• drywall anchors or molly bolts (optional)

Tools

• pliers
• wire cutters
• drill and drill bits
• screwdriver
• sanding block and sandpaper
• miter box and pull saw
• small sponge paint brush
• stud sensor (optional)

1. If you can’t find hooks that will work with your railing, get some wire and make some yourself. Use pliers to bend into shape, then cut with wire cutters. I made 18 hooks.

2. Cut your scrap piece of wood into four 2- x 3-inch pieces, then drill a 7/16-inch hole at one end of each piece. These will hold the dowels.

3. Prime (one coat) and paint (two coats) the dowel holders.

4. Attach the dowel holders to the railing with wood screws. Drill two holes in the dowel holders, then drill matching holes in the railing.

5. Counter-sink the holes with a larger drill bit, then screw in 1-3/4-inch wood screws.

6. Attach the railing to the wall at the top and bottom with four long screws. Find a stud to hang them from or use molly bolts.

7. Cut your dowels so they stick out at least a half inch beyond the dowel holders. Slide ribbon and paper onto the dowels, then insert into the holders. Hang all your bins/pegs/etc. on the rack using the hooks you made. Fill with craft supplies.

8. Mount a power strip to the side of your workstation. Use screws or nails. Make a pencil-rubbing template of the back of the power strip on scrap paper first to determine where to place the nails/screws.

9. Attach the bench vice to the front left corner (if you’re right-handed) of your work surface using bolts, washers, and nuts.

“First rule in government spending: Why build one when you can have two at twice the price?” Any guesses what movie that line is from? I loved these salvaged window frames so much, I bought both. This one was a little worse for wear, but it was nothing wood glue and a fresh paint job couldn’t cure. I got the (free!) wallpaper samples from FabMo, a volunteer effort collecting discontinued fabric samples from the San Francisco design community. Thanks, Hannah and Jonathan!

Salvaged window = wallpaper frames

Supplies

• salvaged window
• wallpaper samples
• masking tape
• spray adhesive
• 2 keyhole fasteners
• 4 washers
• 4 small wood screws
• 2 felt pads
• 2 drywall screws
• corrugated cardboard
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15])
• newspaper or drop cloth

Tools

• drill and drill bit
• ruler
• pencil
• screwdriver
• utility knife
• sponge paint brush
• self-healing mat (optional)
• stud sensor (optional)
• level (optional)

1. First, repair any broken pieces with wood glue and nails. Clamp them together until the glue dries. Clean, sand any imperfections, and dust the window frame.

2. Prime and paint the window frame. I used spray primer, but decided it was too windy outside for spray painting, so I applied the paint color by hand. I’ve become a fan of sponge paint brushes for painting wood. They give a smoother finish, and allow more control over the flow of paint. Let dry several hours.

3. Measure the openings, then cut 18 pieces of cardboard (two for each opening).

4. Choose your wallpaper samples and arrangement.

5. Using one of your cardboard pieces as a template, cut the wallpaper samples to size. A utility knife, ruler, and self-healing mat made this part easy.

6. Adhere each wallpaper sample to a piece of cardboard with spray adhesive.

7. Insert each wallpaper-covered piece of cardboard into the window frame. Then insert another piece of cardboard behind each. Tape in place with masking tape. Not much tape is needed. The snug fit of the cardboard (plus the wall) will keep them in place.

8. Follow steps 7, 8, and 9 right here to finish this project.

Two drawers were left over from my modular bookcase project. I didn’t think they’d be useful for anything but firewood. But upon closer inspection, I began to appreciate the aged beauty of the wood—even the smattering of white paint. Combining the drawers into one shadowbox—and not painting it—was a great way to showcase the wood’s character and history. Thanks again to my favorite neighborhood woodworker for cutting the pieces.

2 salvaged drawers = 1 rustic shadowbox

Supplies and tools

• hammer
• nails
• pliers
• saw (or a friend who will cut the wood for you)
• pencil

1. Disassemble one of the drawers. Start by hammering the sides loose, then hammer the nails through from the back side. Removing all the nails is challenging, but not impossible.

2. Measure the assembled drawer and sketch how many cubbies you want your shadowbox to have. Make a list of the pieces you will need with their dimensions.

3. Gather and measure all the side pieces from the disassembled drawer. Make sure you have enough wood for your plan. (I didn’t have enough, so I found a piece of wood at a salvage yard that matched. It cost me $1.) Measure and cut them to size.

4. Round up all the knick-knacks you plan to display and lay out your arrangement using the cut pieces. Confirm that everything fits as planned. Adjust as needed.

5. Mark with a pencil where each shelf should be placed. Remove and set aside all the tchotchkes.

5. Attach the smaller pieces to the larger pieces with a hammer and nails. I used three nails to attach each board. Assemble the entire grid of cubbies.

6. Nail the grid into place from the outside of the drawer. (I used old nails from a salvage yard that matched the original ones for a more authentic look.)

7. Now all you have to do is fill it with your tchotchkes. Optional: To hang it on the wall, attach sawtooth hangers or keyhole fasteners to the back.

I found these chairs curbside with a “free” sign taped to them. They have a nice shape but suffer from two problems: a shoddy paint job and cracked seats. I knew I could fix both issues. I wasn’t settled on the how part until I saw what Melissa did to her tables at ikea hacker. Perfect solution for these two chairs. The fabric serves as decoration and camouflage.

Reclaimed dining chairs

Supplies

• black latex paint (I used Benjamin Moore Low Lustre Metal & Wood Enamel [363-4B])
• 1/2 yard of fabric (I used “Arboretum Toile Cinder” found at Calico Corners or Fabric.com)
• artist’s medium (I used Liquitex Gloss Medium & Varnish)

Tools

• screwdriver
• paint brushes
• drop cloth
• hand or electric sander
• fabric shears
• ballpoint pen

1. (If your seats aren’t cracked, you can skip step #1 – 4.) Remove the seats with a screwdiver.

2. Apply a generous coat of wood glue at the break.

3. Adhere the two pieces together, clamp, and wipe off the excess glue with a paper towel. I used nylon backpacking straps as a clamp. Let dry for a couple hours.

4. With the straps still on, drill pilot holes and screw two mending braces on the underside of each seat for reinforcement. Let the glue continue to dry overnight.

5. Sand down the lumpy imperfections in the paint. (These chairs really needed to be stripped first, but I didn’t have the desire to pay for—nor breathe—the chemicals required to do so. Besides, the black paint will hide imperfections.) Wipe clean with a damp paper towel. Paint the chair frames, taking care not to paint the back where the fabric will be placed. Let dry overnight.

6. Lightly sand the seats, then place upside down on top of the fabric. Trace the seat with a ballpoint pen onto the backside of the fabric.

7. Cut it out, taking care not to fray the edges.

8. Apply a layer of artist’s medium, then lay the fabric on top and smooth it down. Trim the excess fabric, if necessary.

9. Apply 3-4 coats of artist’s medium over the fabric, letting it dry a couple of hours between coats. Be sure to generously coat all the fabric edges to prevent fraying.

10. If the back of the chair is too curved to trace (like these), just cut a piece roughly to size. Then repeat step #8 and 9.

11. While the medium is drying, apply a second coat of paint to the chair frames. Using a smaller paint brush for precision, paint the edges of the seat as well. (Actually, it’s much easier to paint the edges first, then apply the fabric and medium after the paint is dry.) Let dry, then apply a second coat.

12. When the paint and artist’s medium are dry, reassemble the chairs.