As I mentioned in my last post, hats were commonplace in Victoria magazine. In fact, every issue included at least one woman wearing a hat. Here’s a look at some of Victoria’s many hat ladies…

Photo credits (left to right, top to bottom): Toshi Otsuki, Geoffrey Gross, Toshi Otsuki (3), Tom Hooper, Toshi Otsuki, Luciana Pampalone, Toshi Otsuki

I love high-quality simple straw hats in summer. When I lived in New York City, cozy felt hats were a must for winter. I especially love the big black fur hat, though I doubt I’d have the courage to wear it. It’s too bad we don’t wear hats much on the West Coast. Which one is your favorite hat?

Photo credits (left to right, top to bottom): Pia Tryde, Thomas Hooper (2), Barry Dunne, Stefano Massimo, Steve Randazzo, Toshi Otsuki (3)

All those hats inspired me to make some paper art using their fabulous shapes. I titled my silhouettes “The Hats of Victoria.” All four are made from one of the hats pictured above. Can you find all of them?

I’ve included pdf downloads of all four patterns after the jump for you to make your own paper hats. I thought it would also be great to mix in other feminine accessories: sexy stiletto, small purse, bright umbrella, etc., so I’m planning to make another set soon.

“The Hats of Victoria” silhouettes

Supplies and tools

• patterned scrapbook paper or wallpaper
• black paper
• 4 picture frames
• scissors
• glue stick
• computer, printer, and white paper
• pencil
• 4 patterns (see below)

1. Print out 2-3 of each hat pattern. Download the hat patterns here. You can resize them as necessary to fit your frames.

2. Cut out the hat on one sheet, and the hat stand on another sheet.

3. Place the hat pattern on top of your decorative paper, and cut out both pieces of paper together. You might want to use smaller scissors for some of the intricate cuts.

4. First cut the hat, then the bow/band, then the inside of the hat. Then cut out your hat stand in black paper. There are two reasons to cut out the entire hat as one piece: 1) It’s easier to put all the pieces together in the end, and 2) It gives your art more of a three-dimensional look.

5. Make sure your paper isn’t too busy or doesn’t contrast enough. This was my first try, which turned out to be too busy.

6. Glue the pieces together. Use your third printout as a guide, if necessary. Only apply glue to the top part of the hat stand.

7. Trace the cardboard backing piece of each frame onto your background paper and cut out. Glue the hat to the background paper, if desired.

8. Insert the hat and background paper into the frame, and reassemble the frame. Don’t forget to clean the glass.

9. Hang your frames. For an easy way to get a perfect grid of frames the first try, check out my framed doilies post.

Introducing a new guest nester! Australian Abby Matthews blogs about the things that inspire her at Two Little Dicky Birds. Abby’s remake of this tired, chipped pine dressing table reminds me of my wallpapered cart, but she used an entirely different (and better?) process, so I had to share it with you. Abby writes: “I was inspired by Bryonie Porter’s wallpapered furniture, but wasn’t confident that I could carry off wallpapering the entire table, so I decided to just apply the paper to the top. It was just as well, as I botched the first wallpaper application and used up the bulk of the paper the second time around. The wallpaper I used is a Florence Broadhurst design from an offcut won on eBay. It’s currently used as a writing/computer desk in our living area and is definitely my favourite piece of furniture.” Thanks, Abby!

Wallpapered dressing table

Supplies

• dressing table
• painter’s tape
• sandpaper
• sugar soap (a.k.a. TSP in the U.S.)
• sealer and primer
• spray paint
• wallpaper
• permanent spray adhesive
• clear acrylic spray

Tools

• cloth and/or tack cloth
• sanding block
• pencil
• scissors and/or Stanley knife (a.k.a. utility knife)

1. The dressing table originally came with a mirror attached. This was removed and set aside. Remove the drawers and either tape the handles with painters tape or remove completely and set aside.

2. If necessary, strip and prepare surface. Sand back any glossy varnish or peeling paint. Wipe clean with sugar soap (½ cup sugar soap to ½ bucket of water) and a cloth. Leave to dry. (Don’t forget the drawers!)

NB. If you want to leave the finish as it is, just give it a good clean with sugar soap and leave to dry.

3. Prime the surface before spray painting. This will reduce the number of coats required and prevent any bleed-through of remaining stain or paint. Dry according to instructions on can.

4. Lightly sand and wipe down with a damp rag or tack cloth.

5. Apply a coat of spray paint. It is best to spray a few light coats rather than a thicker coat as otherwise it will tend to run. Once you have sufficiently covered the dresser, leave it to dry overnight.

6. Cut the wallpaper to size. Roll it out, face down, on a clean, dry surface. Place the dresser upside down on the paper and trace around the outside with pencil. Cut with scissors or a Stanley knife. Turn dresser back upright and check the fit. You may need to trim it slightly for a better fit.

NB. As my dresser had a rounded edge I had to take 2-5mm (~1/8 inch) off to avoid papering the curved edge. It is difficult to adhere the wallpaper to a curve, so it’s best to stick with flat surfaces where possible.

7. Spray both the table and paper with permanent spray adhesive. Wait a few seconds until both feel tacky to the touch, otherwise they won’t stick (as I found out the hard way!). The dresser may need two coats as it can absorb quite a bit of glue. Now the tricky part: Line up the wallpaper with the top of the table, working quickly as the glue will stick quite quickly, smoothing out any air bubbles as you go. Leave to dry overnight or even for a couple of days. This is really important. Don’t be tempted to skip to the next step early or the paint finish is likely to run.

8. Brush or spray on clear acrylic. This helps the wallpaper bond to the furniture, protects it from spills and scratches, and makes it a lot easier to clean. If you’re using spray, you’ll need a few coats (five or more), leaving to dry (as per the manufacturer’s instructions) between each coat.

9. Reattach the handles on the drawers if you have removed them, and replace in the table. Congratulations – you’re all finished!

“First rule in government spending: Why build one when you can have two at twice the price?” Any guesses what movie that line is from? I loved these salvaged window frames so much, I bought both. This one was a little worse for wear, but it was nothing wood glue and a fresh paint job couldn’t cure. I got the (free!) wallpaper samples from FabMo, a volunteer effort collecting discontinued fabric samples from the San Francisco design community. Thanks, Hannah and Jonathan!

Salvaged window = wallpaper frames

Supplies

• salvaged window
• wallpaper samples
• masking tape
• spray adhesive
• 2 keyhole fasteners
• 4 washers
• 4 small wood screws
• 2 felt pads
• 2 drywall screws
• corrugated cardboard
• primer
• paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15])
• newspaper or drop cloth

Tools

• drill and drill bit
• ruler
• pencil
• screwdriver
• utility knife
• sponge paint brush
• self-healing mat (optional)
• stud sensor (optional)
• level (optional)

1. First, repair any broken pieces with wood glue and nails. Clamp them together until the glue dries. Clean, sand any imperfections, and dust the window frame.

2. Prime and paint the window frame. I used spray primer, but decided it was too windy outside for spray painting, so I applied the paint color by hand. I’ve become a fan of sponge paint brushes for painting wood. They give a smoother finish, and allow more control over the flow of paint. Let dry several hours.

3. Measure the openings, then cut 18 pieces of cardboard (two for each opening).

4. Choose your wallpaper samples and arrangement.

5. Using one of your cardboard pieces as a template, cut the wallpaper samples to size. A utility knife, ruler, and self-healing mat made this part easy.

6. Adhere each wallpaper sample to a piece of cardboard with spray adhesive.

7. Insert each wallpaper-covered piece of cardboard into the window frame. Then insert another piece of cardboard behind each. Tape in place with masking tape. Not much tape is needed. The snug fit of the cardboard (plus the wall) will keep them in place.

8. Follow steps 7, 8, and 9 right here to finish this project.

I bought this trolley for a steal on Craigslist. You may have seen it here. You can’t tell in the photo, but it’s banged up and rickety from years of use. My friend Peter added some reinforcement to make it sturdy, then I filled in the nicks with wood filler and oiled the squeaky wheels with WD-40. Finally, I made cosmetic changes—using paint and wallpaper left over from Sunset’s Menlo Park Idea House. Thanks, Sarah!

Wallpapered cart

Supplies

• latex primer
• latex paint (I used Benjamin Moore Aura in Steam [AF-15])
• craft glue (I used Mod Podge in matte)
• wallpaper
• painter’s tape

Tools

• paintbrush
• foam brush
• drop cloth
• scissors
• ruler & pencil
• craft knife (optional)
• brayer or small paint roller (optional)

1. First tape off the wheels with painter’s tape, then paint one coat of primer on the frame only. Let dry.

2. Apply two coats of paint (also to the frame only), letting it dry several hours in between coats.

3. Measure, mark, and cut the wallpaper to fit each of the three shelves.

4. Using a foam brush, paint glue in sections on the cart surface.

5. Smooth the wallpaper down with a brayer. I didn’t have a brayer, so I used a dry paint roller, which worked well. Keep adding glue and smoothing as you go. Trim any excess paper, if necessary, with a craft knife. Let dry for about an hour.

6. Add a top coat of glue to protect the surface of the wallpaper and make it easier to clean. It will cause slight bubbling of the wallpaper, but will lessen as the glue dries. As an alternative top coat, you could spray the wallpaper with clear lacquer.

7. Let the top coat dry overnight before using the cart.